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Car bottom treatment: reviews, prices. Handling the bottom of the car with your own hands

Corrosion does not look at the brand or the value of the car, and sooner or later it appears in the form of rust, bloating, or completely rotten body parts. Despite modern technologies designed to protect the metal, it has not yet been possible to stop it. Water, mud, temperature changes, mechanical damage, road chemical reagents do their work slowly.

The first from such factors suffers the lower part of the body of the car. But is it possible to somehow prevent corrosion? We will talk about this, and also consider what is the anticorrosion treatment of the car's bottom and how to do it on our own.

Is it possible to avoid corrosion?

It is important to understand that any automotive metal will rust. In some, this manifests itself earlier, in others later, therefore, it is impossible to avoid corrosion. But it can be suspended, maximally shielding the metal surfaces from the effects of the environment.

There are three types of body corrosion:

  • Chemical - oxidative process, caused by interaction with water and oxygen in the air;
  • Mechanochemical - corrosion, caused by mechanical damage and the same oxidation processes;
  • Electrochemical - is caused by the action of water and the aggressive components dissolved in it, used to combat icing of roads.

When these three types act on the metal at the same time, the corrosion process occurs much faster.

What is anti-corrosion treatment?

Anticorrosion treatment is a procedure during which the body parts, potentially exposed to the harmful effects of the environment, are cleaned of dirt, rust and covered with a layer of a special protective substance. This solution allows to significantly slow down corrosion due to metal insulation. Of course, such a coating can not last forever, so it needs to be updated every 3-5 years.

In many decent car dealers, the processing of the car's bottom, arches and interior surfaces of the doors is included in the mandatory pre-sale preparation. If such a procedure is not provided, the machine will have to be processed manually. For this purpose it is possible to address in specialized services where processing of the bottom of the car is provided. Prices for these services depend on the type of materials used in the work.

You can also roll up your sleeves and do it yourself. Then you choose. We will consider the latter option, but first let's look at what this process is and what tools and materials it will need.

Stages of anticorrosion treatment

The process of anti-corrosion treatment includes three main stages:

  1. Body preparation.
  2. Application of a protective layer inside the hidden cavities.
  3. Processing of the bottom of the car and arches.

At the first stage, the surfaces are cleaned of dirt and rust, then washed with hot water supplied under pressure. In this case, all elements of the body are washed without exception. Then the machine is allowed to dry completely. Often, to accelerate this procedure, use a jet of hot air. After that, the car is lifted on the lift and inspected. All foci of corrosion on the bottom are removed with a metal brush and degreased. Further, the surfaces are covered with an anti-corrosion primer.

The second stage can be started when the car completely dries. Processing hidden cavities involves blowing a special anti-corrosive substance inside the spars, thresholds, racks, boxes and doors. Rust is cunning enough, it can start to manifest from the inside. Blow the solution under pressure with a special gun.

Car bottom treatment is the most important stage. The lower part of the body is most susceptible to various kinds of damage. This is water, and dirt, and reagents, and gravel. The protective coating on the bottom is applied in two stages, and the repeated application takes place after the first layer has dried completely.

What is the bottom treated

Processing of the bottom and arches of the car can be made by a wide variety of materials on different bases. Let's look at the most popular ones.

  • Rubber bitumen mastic - a universal tool for processing the bottom of the car and wheel arches. Excellent for metal, resistant to gravel and low temperatures. Does not deform and does not exfoliate.
  • Shale mastic is a solution for protecting the bottom and outer surfaces of arches. At the base of the mastic is bitumen, which forms a strong and elastic film on the surface to be treated.
  • "Movil" - a popular and common mastic for processing the bottom of the car. It has excellent agressive and moisture-displacing properties. Ideal for welding welds.

Protective agent "Anti-noise"

Huge popularity among car owners uses a material called "Antishum Prime", which allows not only to protect the bottom of the car from corrosion, but also significantly limit the noise coming into the cabin. It is made on the basis of purified white spirit, bitumen, synthetic resins, rubber crumb, anti-corrosion inhibitors with the addition of aluminum powder and zinc.

With this tool, the car's bottom can be machined. "Antichum Prime" received the most positive reviews, especially in terms of stability and high soundproof characteristics. The treatment with this agent is also carried out in several layers, resulting in the formation of an elastic and super-reliable coating possessing the properties of a soundproofing device.

Advantages of "Antichum Prime":

  • Long service life (3-5 years);
  • High wear resistance;
  • Provides high anti-gravel protection;
  • Significantly reduces the noise level;
  • Provides good thermal insulation.

Materials for processing arches

A few other materials are used for arches.

  • Bitumen-rubber mastic - protective mass for arches and internal surfaces.
  • Anti-gravel is a means for protecting areas most vulnerable to small stones flying out from under the wheels: arches, rapids, etc. It is produced on a bitumen or rubber basis. Antigrave coating can even be painted in the right color.

Car underbody processing: prices

The cost of the preparation of the car and its anti-corrosion treatment directly depends on the materials used and the category (size) of your car. On average, the price for the whole complex, including washing, drying, mechanical preparation and application of protective coating, incl. And in hidden cavities, varies from 4 to 9 thousand rubles.

You can perform and element-wise processing, selecting only the bottom, arches, thresholds or other parts of the body.

If you do not have the opportunity or the desire to pay money for work, it is possible to produce "anticorrosion" without much difficulty yourself.

Means and tools for hand treatment of bottoms

Handling the bottom of the car with their own hands can also be carried out. This process involves the use of such tools:

  • Approximately 5 kg of mastic;
  • 4 cans of protective equipment (at your choice) for hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places;
  • 2 paint brushes (wide and narrow) or a special gun for applying anticorrosive coating with a compressor;
  • Drill or Bulgarian with nozzles for cleaning rust;
  • solvent;
  • Protective gloves.

Getting Started

The processing requires the use of a lift, overpass or car pit, because most of the work is done from the bottom.

We begin with a thorough washing of the bottoms and arches. When the machine dries, proceed to the preparation, cleaning out the visible stains of rust with the help of special attachments to a drill or bulgarian.

Then the solvent degrease the surface to be prepared and allow it to dry out. After that, with a gun or brushes carefully apply a protective coating, not missing a millimeter. Blow out all the hidden cavities of the bottom with a balloon. Wait until the applied layer dries (5-10 hours). Complete drying of the mastic will occur only after 2-3 days. Only after this period the car can be used again.

Helpful Tips

  1. For work use only the checked up means bought in specialized trade points.
  2. The bottom should be treated only in a well-ventilated area.
  3. The temperature in the working room should not be below 10 o C.
  4. In no case should not apply a thick layer of mastic - over time it will lag behind the metal under the influence of its weight.
  5. Avoid contact with skin and eyes.

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