Pattern tunic for the boy. Children's Gymnastics: Pattern

The people's interest in the events of the Second World War is growing. On the holiday of May 9, all schoolchildren and preschool children wear military uniforms and pay tribute to the heroes who once liberated the whole world from the German invaders, participating in parades and arranging whole views on this topic in schools and kindergartens. There are also military-patriotic reconstruction clubs, where people try to recreate the events, life and clothes of that time as accurately as possible.

Therefore, the speech in this article will be about the main details of the military uniform of that time - about a tunic. Here, the pattern of the tunic and its tailoring will be examined in detail.

Also in modern fashion, many designers often use a style such as military. Therefore, the design of the WWII tunic is useful not only for creating an image of a soldier of the times of the Great Patriotic War, it can be used as the basis of a stylish shirt, jacket or light jacket.

Gymnast for the boy

To make a gymnast for a girl, a pattern is optional. If you do not have time or just do not want to build a pattern, you can reseat all the elements from the finished shirt of the right size. You will only need to lengthen a couple of cm of the cuff pattern and slightly alter the collar.

Of course, if you are not interested in the exact reliability of this outfit, it will be enough to buy a khaki shirt and change her "native" buttons to buttons with stars and sew on epaulettes.

However, the similarity of gymnasts made by any of the above methods will be approximate.

Much more qualitative and closer to the original will be a military tunic, the pattern of which is made from A to Z.

Materials and Tools

In order for you to get a shirt pattern for a boy, you will need the following materials and tools.

• Centimeter.
• Chalk cutter or a small remnant.
• Pencil.
• Lekala.
• The paper on which the pattern will be built. Suitable for any paper of suitable size, for example, newspapers. However, it is better to use graph paper, if the pattern of a tunic or any other more or less serious product is new to you.
• Threads of suitable color.
• Sewing machine.
• Threads of contrasting color.
• Ruler.
• Dense fabric (suitable cambric).
• Buttons with a star - 6 pcs.
• Buttons for epaulets.

Removing measurements

So, you need a children's tunic. The pattern of this element of the form of the Second World War requires the same measure as the man's shirt. On many sites, measurements on patterns are indicated by abbreviations, which for beginners in sewing are not always clear. In this article, you will be able to decipher the designations of the measures used for sewing children's and men's shirts and gymnasts.

When taking measurements, you should stand on the side of the person to whom you are going to sew a tunic. Use the centimeter to measure the following parts of the body. Remember - centimeter when measuring should not be taut.

In order for your uniform to be perfect, you need to take the following measurements.

1. OSH - neck girth. Girth of the neck is needed in order to sew the gate the correct diameter. Measure the neck in the place where the gate will begin (closer to the base of the neck), measure the thumb under the centimeter , this is necessary so that the gate is not too tight and does not cause discomfort.
2. OG - chest girth. These measurements are made at the most prominent points of the chest.
3. OT - girth of the waist. To determine the waist line, find the thinnest place between the last ribs and the beginning of the hip bone. Tie the waist with a thread or an elastic band. This will not only make it easier for you to define the OG, but it will also be useful for further measurements.
4. OB - girth of the hips. This measure is taken at the most prominent points of the buttocks.
5. SHG - chest width. To make it easier for you to measure the SG, insert as high as possible into the armpits of the ruler, wooden sticks or cardboard tabs. You have to measure the distance from the highest point of one ruler to the highest point of the other ruler on the chest side. Do not remove the rulers (or what you put in the armpits), they will be useful for removing the AL.
6. ШС - width of the back. The width of the back is measured almost the same as the width of the chest, only on the chest side. Measure the distance between the highest points of the rulers on the side of the back.
7. ШП - shoulder width. Measure the distance from the neck at the place you chose to measure the OR, until the end of the shoulder (or to the point where you want to see the shoulder seam).
8. DR - the length of the sleeve. Measure the distance from the place where the shoulder seam is located, to the "knuckle" of the thumb.
9. OP - shoulder girth. Measure the circumference of the strained bicep at the most protruding point.
10. OZ - wrist circumference. This measure is needed to determine the width of the bottom line of the tunic cuff. In this measurement, insert a thumb between the measuring centimeter and the wrist.
11. CI is the length of the product. Measure the distance from the seventh vertebra to the most protruding point of the buttocks. Or from the seventh vertebra to the point where your product will end.

Building a Pattern

Without a quality fabric, you will not get a good baby tunic. The pattern in sewing this element of the WWII form is also important.

Below you will see the increase and other additional calculations required by the tunic. The pattern for the child and the adult is almost the same. To show more clearly how to build a pattern, let's take for clarity the following values:

• OG - 45 cm.
• The OR is 16.5 cm.
• ShS - 19 cm.
• CI - 65 cm.
• SHG - 18 cm.
• DR - 55 cm.

Back and front of the tunic

• Depth of armhole of back of tunic: OG / 3 + 8 = 45/3 + 8 = 23 cm.
• To the width of the back, you need to make an increase of 1.5 cm: 18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm.
• To find out the width of the armhole, it is necessary to have OG / 3 = 45/3 = 15 cm.
• To determine the size of the tunic in the chest area to the OG, add 10: 45 + 10 = 55 cm.
• Place of the side seam: 4 cm from the back.
• The width of the germ is calculated as follows: ОШ / 3 + 0.5 = 16.5 / 3 + 0.5 = 6 cm.
• To calculate the height of the germ, divide the WR by 3: 6/3 = 2 cm.
• Shoulder should be lowered 3 cm from the back.
• Behind the shoulder stands 1 cm.
• From the chest line along the backrest armhole, the point is laid: the depth of the armhole / 3 = 23/3 = 7.6.
• On the armhole armhole, an auxiliary line of 3 cm is laid from the corner.
• At the bottom, the back of the back is 2 cm wide.
• Front width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout: 6 cm.
• In the front, the depth of the throat is equal to: the width of the sprout + 1 = 6 + 1 = 7 cm.
• Shoulder should be lowered 5 cm from the front.
• The front shoulder is equal to: the back shoulder is 1 cm.
• On the armhole armhole from the chest up we lay 1/3 of the depth of the armhole: 23/3 = 7.6 cm.
• On the armhole armhole, an auxiliary line of 3 cm is laid from the corner.
• At the bottom, the back of the backrest expands 4 cm.
• The front of the floor is extended by 3 cm.
• The front buckle extends 30 cm.

Sleeve sizes

• ДР = 55 cm.
• The width of the sleeves from above can be calculated without measuring, simply dividing the exhaust gas by 3 and adding 6: 45/3 + 6 = 21 cm.
• The width of the sleeves at the bottom is calculated as follows: OG / 3 + 3 = 45/3 + 3 = 18 cm.
• The height of the sleeve of the sleeve is equal to the width of the armhole: 15 cm.

Cuff Sizes

• Cuff length: about 8 cm.
• Width of the cuff: Width of the wrist + 2 cm.

Size of the gate

• Gate width: 9 cm.
• The length of the gate: ОШ + 6 = 16.5 cm.

Dimensions for a strip for cutting a fastener

• The upper length is 37 cm.
• The upper bar on the width is 8 cm.
• The lower bar along the length is 32 cm.
• The bottom bar width is 3 cm.

Valve dimensions

• The length of the valve is 13.5 cm.
• The middle of the valve has a width of 7 cm.
• On the sides the valve is 4 cm.

Pocket turning dimensions

• The length of turning is 16 cm.
• The width of turning is 6 cm.

Sacking pocket dimensions

• The width of the burlap is 16 cm.
• The length of the burlap is 40 cm.

Dimensions of the pocket itself

• The length of the pocket is 16 cm.
• The width of the pocket is 15 cm above.
• The width of the pocket from below is 15 cm.
• The width of the pocket from below is 16 cm.

The pattern of the shirt for the boy or girl is constructed in the same way as the pattern of the man's shirt, but the width of the cuff is increased by 2 cm and the collar is constructed in the form of a rectangle.

According to the measurements taken by you and calculated on the above formulas, a pattern of sewing is drawn on paper. According to the calculations, only a women's tunic can not be sewn, the pattern in this case is slightly different.

Cutting

When the pattern of a soldier's tunic is built, it must be transferred from paper to fabric and cut. Before applying the picture, the material must be thoroughly ironed or stripped. If you have chosen a fabric that can "sit down" after washing, before using it, you need to wash it in very warm (not boiling water) and dry it.

When the preparation of the material is finished, you can proceed directly to the cutting.

• Cut out the paper pattern, remember that it is necessary to cut it strictly along the pencil line, without leaving it, otherwise the finished product can turn out to be smaller or bigger.
• Fold the fabric in half with the front side inward (so that you draw on the wrong side).
• Circle all the details, the back and front part (on the paper pattern - half) of the tunic is applied to the fold of the fabric with an even side so that after you have cut and straightened this part of the pattern, you have a whole back and front part.
• You should get: front part - 1 piece, backrest - 1 piece, 4 pocket valves, 1 piece collar, 2 cuffs, 2 straps.
• In our example, we will not sew the pockets for the tunic, we'll sew only the valves to create the illusion of pockets. If you want to make real pockets, open and pockets with "burlap".
• Cut out the circled details, retreating 1 cm from the drawn lines (seam allowances).

Sewing

We approached the most critical part of the work. The uniform of the tunic is ready, all details are cut out - you can start sewing.

First of all, all the details need to be swept away, and then sew them together.

• Pairing sweep the valves of the pockets from the wrong side. We spend machine by sour cream, leaving only the upper side of valves unshielded. Turn out the valves and, deviating from the edge of 0.5 cm, we dilute the valves (except the top part) with a decorative stitch.
• We mark the cut on the front of the tunic, and then sew the straps - the back and front.
• Sew valves to the front of the product at the chest level.
• We sweep the back and in front of the product over the shoulder seams, and then sew sour cream.
• To the bottom of the pattern of sleeves sew the cuffs in straightened form. One edge of the cuff is sewn from the underside of the sleeve. To the sewn edge we apply a free edge of the cuff and we spread the folded element on the sides. We turn out the resulting design and, bending the free edge, we paste it from the front side. We make a decorative stitch along the sides and the top edge of the cuffs. We make and process the loop.
• We take the sleeves to the armholes, and then sew them there with the help of a typewriter and make a decorative line around the circle.
• Sew the edges of the sleeve and the side seams.
• We thoroughly iron and steam the product.
• Sew the buttons with the stars to the bar and the valves of the pockets.

After each of the items listed, the product should be ironed. Well-ironed seams are the guarantee of a qualitatively sewn product.

Thus, a tunic for a girl can also be sewn, a pattern for children of both sexes is the same.