Jewelry Art. Masters of jewelry business

Jewelery is the manufacture of various products, usually made of precious metals using gems. Initially, such things served not only for beauty, but also in order to emphasize the high social position of the owner or owner. Ornaments were often attributed to magical functions. They were used, for example, as protective amulets and talismans. The history of jewelry art goes back to ancient times. Initially, the creation of jewelry did not involve any kind of processing. Over the centuries, art has been perfected, craftsmen have created increasingly complex and refined decorations. Let's follow the history of jewelry craft and call it the outstanding masters.

Ancient Egypt

Jeweler's art was surprisingly well developed in ancient Egypt. The ornaments created there still amaze with their beauty and complexity. In form they usually resembled images of ancient deities. In ancient Egypt believed that jewelry performs magical functions: protect against disease and evil spells, connect a person with the forces of nature.

To wear ornaments was relied on certain parts of the body. First of all, it was the heart area (it was considered the most significant organ). To protect him, on the chest wore products in the form of a scarab. The beetle symbolized vitality, activity, resurrection. In addition, the middle point of the forehead was an important point. Ancient Egyptian masters, performing jewelry for her, used symbols of strength and wisdom, for example, images of a snake. Speaking about the technique of making products, it can be noted that usually chasing and engraving were used, and the favorite materials of the Egyptians were gold, silver, obsidian and amethyst.

Ancient Greece

Greater grace and subtlety distinguished the ancient jewelry in Greece. The favorite technique of the masters was filigree - performing the most complicated pattern from a thin gold or silver wire soldered to a metal background. Most often, a vegetable ornament was used: images of flowers, leaves, vines.

From materials above all gold was valued - to this metal the ancient Greeks attributed magical properties. In general, jewelry emphasized the status of the owner, so the thinner and more complex the work, the more expensive it cost. Rich Greek women wore many different ornaments. Honorable were products for hair and neck, as well as bracelets. The exception was except that Sparta - local women did not wear magnificent and quaint jewelry, preferring simple metal ornaments.

Jewelcrafting of the Renaissance

Renaissance jewelry impresses with its elegance, beauty and complexity. Masters used a variety of techniques, including chasing, cutting and enamel. They were influenced in many respects by ancient traditions, but at the same time typical features were added for those years.

Thus, decorations are not so much pointing to the status of the owner, as emphasized by the refinement of taste and imagination. They become unique and unique. Gems, pearls and exquisite enamel details adorn not only jewelry, but also magnificent ladies' outfits. Signets and massive pendants are becoming more popular.

In Germany, masters use very unusual materials: coconut shell, ostrich eggs and shells.

Jewelers of Ancient Russia

Russian jewelry art has a great history. This is evidenced by modern archaeological excavations: the quality and subtlety of the work of ancient craftsmen amaze now. The jewelry art of Ancient Rus was influenced by the Scandinavian, Oriental and Byzantine cultures, and at the same time was inextricably linked with folk customs and traditions.

Masters from all corners of Kievan Rus' perfectly owned the most complex techniques, including art casting, scandium and gold tip. Veliky Novgorod was famous for its ornaments made of precious metals. Kiev jewelers with unusual ability processed gems. The most common ornaments were the so-called temporal rings, which were woven into a hairdo or hung up to headdresses. Also, women wore a variety of bracelets and beads with pendants.

Russia in the XIV-XVII centuries

With the advent of the Tatar-Mongol hordes jewelry business was forgotten for almost a century. Many masters died or were taken away for work by the Horde rulers. Only towards the end of the fourteenth century does a gradual return to ancient art begin. The center of jewelry crafts is Moscow, where silver scanner technique is very popular.

In the 16th - 17th centuries, jeweler art actively uses enamel and gems. The jewelry of this period is inherent in the richness, color and richness of flowers. The stones are also distinguished by their brightness - in the honor of sapphires, rubies, emeralds. This time is called the prime of the blackening technique. In many cities centers of silver business are being created.

European jewelery art of the 18th century

In the 18th century, the dominant styles were baroque and rococo. This applies to jewelry. Fashionable are quirkiness, splendor and bright colors. At the same time the leading position is occupied by the French jewelry art. It was then that the decorations acquired their modern look. Fashion gradually includes jewelery ensembles, big brooches are very popular among wealthy people. The most favorite stones are diamonds of yellowish, pink and bluish hues, while they are used in both men's and women's costumes.

Russia in the XVIII century

In Russia in the XVIII century jewelry art blossomed. This was largely due to the reforms of Peter I. Since then, jewelry business has been actively borrowing European trends, while maintaining its identity. Foreign artists often come to Russia. Among them - the famous Jeremy Pose, who worked at court for thirty years and created true masterpieces of jewelry art. His best work is rightly considered the Great Imperial Crown, performed for Catherine II. A unique product of its kind has almost five thousand diamonds. Now this relic is carefully guarded by the unique museum of jewelry art - the Diamond Fund in Moscow.

In general, the use of precious stones is becoming popular at this time. Glittering, bright, perfectly processed and decorated, they perfectly complement and decorate the magnificent outfits of noble ladies and nobles.

It is interesting that the very word "jeweler" also came into use in the XVIII century. It replaced the rather long name of "gold and silver affairs master".

Europe in the XIX century

In the middle of the XIX century jewelry became more massive. At the same time, less valuable stones and materials were used: aquamarine, rock crystal, malachite, artificial diamonds. Jewelry art replaced the general style - in place of rococo comes classicism, accordingly, decorations become more rigorous and carefully elaborated. Products with precious stones gradually cease to be used in men's suits, but fashion includes knobs for canes and expensive snuff-boxes.

Of the famous masters can be identified court jeweler Napoleon I Martin Guillaume Bienne. In the XIX century, such world famous houses as Cartier and Tiffany were born.

The state of affairs in Russia in the XIX century

The highest level of jewelry art in Russia reached in the XIX century. At this time, the direction of work is substantially changing, the masters are trying to evade European traditions and return to the primordial Russian, giving the products a national flavor. Especially fashionable is the river pearl.

In St. Petersburg and Moscow there are large enterprises of silver and gold. Especially known are the companies Ovchinnikov, Postnikov, the brothers Grachevs and, of course, Carla Faberge. With their amazing craftsmanship, they conquer not only the Russian nobility, but also the royal courts of Western Europe. However, their products are available to the ordinary buyer - it's about cigarette cases and silverware.

According to experts, the end of the XIX - beginning of the XX century is the golden age of Russian jewelry art.

Twentieth Century

In the last century, a large number of trends are being formed in jewelry art. In the first decades the main style is modern. In the jewelry art, his influence was realized in the extreme complexity of the forms and ornamentation of ornaments. Actively used platinum, palladium, anodized aluminum. Again, diamonds are gaining popularity. Fashion is becoming and costume jewelry, the distribution of which is significantly influenced by the famous Coco Chanel.

In the war and post-war years, items become more simple, gold is often replaced by bronze. In the second half of the century, under the influence of nonconformist ideas, masters begin to use unusual materials previously unthinkable for jewelry: wood, plastic, steel and others. With the development of sophisticated technology there are decorations with chameleon stones, capable of changing color depending on the temperature drops or the mood of the owner. Cultured pearls of various colors are becoming popular.

In the Soviet years, Russian jewelry firms produced mostly mass products. But at the end of the last century, modern masters conceived to revive the guild of Russian jewelers, in order to return the former glory to jewelry art.

Modern Art

Nowadays jewelry craft, perhaps even more than before, becomes an art. Ornaments are a form of creative self-expression. Modern enterprises use more professional tools and accessible materials. Many products are made of synthetic materials. And although they can not surpass the beauty and perfection of natural stones, they still compete with them with dignity.

Modern jewelry art adequately continues the traditions of the old masters. And the use of new technologies allows creating more and more unusual and interesting jewelry.