Cutting of grapes. Growing grapes from cuttings. When to germinate cuttings of grapes?

Cuttings of grapes need to be purchased only in nurseries that guarantee the varietal conformity of the material, as well as the absence of diseases. In regions infected with phylloxera, buying seedlings is extremely dangerous! Any planting material should be disinfected both in the areas of blanks, and before planting!

The rest period

Grapes for a year passes a year cycle. It consists of two periods - rest and vegetation. The first one lasts from fall foliage to spring climatic warming. During the rest period, all processes are very weak. Even at a favorable temperature, the kidneys do not germinate. This period lasts until mid-January and is called physiological rest.

Then the plant begins the next phase. It is called forced rest. In this condition, the grapes are capable of rapid awakening when the temperature rises to +10 degrees. This time is used for winter vaccinations, as well as for the accelerated cultivation of seedlings from cuttings of an aged, annual vine. They are selected from the uterine bushes of high yields with pronounced varietal characteristics.

Workpiece

Cutting of grapes is the selection of parts of ripened vines of any size, even with one eye. The most rational choice is the choice of a vine with two or three kidneys.

The most viable cuttings are those that are harvested in the autumn after the completion of vegetation. For this purpose shoots with a diameter of 8-10 mm are selected. Thin cuttings worse take root. In some varieties, the vine itself is not thick. Then the workpieces will be thinner.

Cuttings of grapes are made as follows:

• The vine is cleaned from stepsons and antennae.
• The lower cut is made obliquely and 3 cm below the node from which the bunch or tendril leaves. The knife is lowered into a solution of potassium permanganate after each use.
• The upper cut is made straight and 4 cm above the knot.

Cuttings of the grapes are finished, and the prepared material is collected in bundles, leveled at the bottom end and connected in two places. Next, a label with a variety name is attached.

Storage

Bunches of cuttings for a day soaked in water, then lowered into iron vitriol (3% solution). These measures will protect them from over-drying and the appearance of mold. Now cuttings can be stored.

There are several ways for this:

• Cuttings are placed in plastic bags and stored in a ventilated basement at temperatures from 0 to +6 degrees.
• In a pit 50 cm deep, bunches are laid horizontally and poured over with damp sand until it covers them completely. A wooden control cover is placed on top. Then they cover everything with sand to the top.
• If the cuttings are not very large, then it is convenient to use them for storing them with one-and-a-half-liter plastic bottles with cut bottoms. In one put the prepared material, on the other two longitudinal cuts are made and put on the first. With this method, no binding is required, and ventilation is effected by opening the plugs 2-3 times during the entire storage period.

Checking the planting material before rooting

When to germinate cuttings of grapes? This can be done in winter (in February) and in the spring.

The stored material is carefully removed, cleaned of sand, washed with potassium permanganate, then its appearance is checked. The state of the wood is determined by the updated cut which has a bright green color. And when it compresses, a little moisture appears. On a longitudinal section, the kidneys should also be evenly green. Cuttings with any deviations (black or brown bark, various spots or points and other damages) are subject to rejection.

Some moisture may be lost during storage. It must be restored by soaking the cuttings in soft (rain, thawed) water for a period of days to three. Before rooting, all cuttings must be labeled with the name of the variety. The lower section is updated to the node with a full diaphragm - a storehouse of nutrients. To form additional roots, a portion of the cortex can be scratched. Do this from the lower end of the cut with a sharp knife.

The upper cut is not updated, lower it for a second into molten paraffin or wax to avoid the formation of fungus and putrefactive bacteria. The lower kidney is better to remove - so once again you can check the condition of the planting material.

After everything has been prepared and known, when germinating cuttings of grapes, you can proceed to their rooting. This is done in winter in small containers, and in the spring in a schoolchild.

Sprouting in glasses

The most acceptable and common method. Growing grapes from cuttings in cups will be more effective if their lower part is exposed to a day in a solution of heteroauxin. The kidneys are not wetted. Dishes with seedlings are covered with a plastic bag and installed in a warm place (for example, a battery).

In a day, when the preparation of cuttings of grapes for germination is over, they are planted in cups with soil. The earth mixture consists of the following components:

• Humus - 1 part.
• Peat - 1 part.
• The tilled earth is 2 parts.
• Coarse sand - 1 part.

Capacities for planting cuttings can be made from 1.5-liter plastic bottles. A glass of 20 cm high is cut from below, an opening is made in the bottom. The top part of the bottle is not thrown away. It will come in handy later to close the glass and provide a microclimate to the cuttings.

The ground in the glasses should be poured, make a hole in the center almost to the bottom with a diameter of 2 cm. Then you need to make a pillow of sand and fill it completely after the cuttings are installed.

To grow grapes from cuttings passed by all the rules, that is, first the formation of roots, then the awakening of the kidneys, it is necessary to observe certain conditions. The temperature for the bottom of the cup should be up to +30 degrees, and for the kidneys - no higher than +15. This is quite difficult to achieve, but it is possible. For example, if you grow grapes from cuttings at home, then such conditions can be created on the window. Glasses are installed on a metal tray, which is fixed on the battery. The inner window frame is opened and the seedlings are isolated from the room by a polyethylene screen. The temperature can additionally be adjusted with a window. Growing grapes from the cuttings of the house, watering can be provided from below, supplying warm water to the pan. Through the drainage holes in the cups, it will enter the soil.

After the roots begin to be looked through through the transparent walls, the cooling of the kidney zone is stopped. When buds start to develop shoots, the plugs on the top of the bottles are opened, and with active growth, the shelter is completely removed.

Green cuttings

In the spring, you can use stepsons and truncated shoots. Green cuttings with two buds are immediately put into the water. Then planted in glasses or boxes, create a partial shade until they move into growth. Summer months cuttings will develop, and in the autumn they are removed to the cellar. In spring, seedlings are placed in buckets with fertile soil, and in September - in a permanent place in the vineyard. Circulation of grapes in spring is a rather risky business, as during winter you can lose most of the grown plants.

Kilchevanie

If you want to learn how to grow grapes cuttings quickly, you need to apply one agrotechnical device. It allows them to create a circular callus from which roots will appear in a short time. For the kilts to cuttings of the grapes successfully, the earth is removed from the greenhouse. Then dig a trench deeper than the length of the seedlings by 20 cm, put the grid on the bottom and put the bundles upside down tightly to each other, covering them with river sand. The lower ends (they are closer to the surface) should be on the same level. Then they are covered with a layer of sawdust or moss in 2 cm and a humus layer of 12 cm, watered and covered with frames, by means of which the temperature will be regulated (+22 ... +24 ^о С). The soil should be periodically moistened and loosened. In the southern regions, ice is laid on the bottom of the trench or spilled with cold water. Kilchevanie ends in two to three weeks.

Growing of grapes in the middle strip of Russia

It is generally accepted that cultivation of this plant is possible only in the southern regions. But today the technology of growing grapes for the central part of Russia has been developed.

First you need to choose a place for planting. It must be sunny and windless. During the vegetation, the plants should be located in the direction of the north-south.

Soil preparation, planting and care

After the cultivation of seedlings of grapes of early varieties is carried out successfully, they will need to be properly placed on the site. Do this at the end of May, when the last frosts pass. In the planting pit 50 х 50 cm in size, the garden soil is mixed with a hill mixed with humus. At this elevation and place the plant.

Abundant irrigation should be carried out under the root. Weeding and weeding are mandatory. Grapes respond well to fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. Liquid mullein should be added in the spring to quickly build up the green mass. And at the end of the summer, phosphorus is needed, so that the vine is well ripe and has time to finish the vegetation. Throughout the growth, potassium is also needed.

In order to form a large number of productive vines, it is necessary to break in time the lateral shoots - stepchildren.

Forming grapes and shelter for the winter

In autumn, after falling leaves, they are engaged in easy pruning and creation of sleeves (vines). In the first year, in the conditions of the central Russia, they are left on 2-3 per plant.

For the winter, the grapes need to be high-pitched and sheltered. You can do it like this:

• Collect the vine in a bundle and tie it with string.
• Wrap it with a spinball and roofing felt.
• Drag it with a rope.
• The resulting design should be placed on boards, stones or bricks.

Such a shelter will not get moisture during thaws, and the vine will not get wet. Dry frost is not terrible to a dry plant.

How to properly remove the shelter

The design is disassembled in reverse order in early May. But do not tie the vine to the trellis until there is a possibility of recurrent frosts. While it is lying on the ground, you can always cover with the same spandball or non-woven cover material. In addition, the surface of the earth is always warmer, and in the case of a cold weather, the vine will not freeze.

In early June, it can be safely placed on the trellis, but there is another problem. By this time, shoots have already reached a decent size, so you need to show maximum caution, so as not to break them.

Garter of grapes and shoots (dry or green) increases the yield and its quality. It enables airing of bushes and more lighting, and also frees approaches to plants for carrying out mechanical work.

Dry garter

It is done during sap flow, but before the buds swell. When they begin to blossom, it is very easy to break them. Last year's shoots are tied up in an upright position to form a stem. If it is high, then it needs to be fixed in two or three places. A long vine, designed for harvesting, is tied horizontally, achieving maximum illumination.

A special rope is used for this method, consisting of steel wire and paper winding. When the garter is necessary to leave a reserve for thickening shoots.

If the bush is small, then the whole fruit vine is attached to the bottom trellis in one row. At large dimensions of the plant, some of the shoots are tied to the second wire.

The green fastening of the grapes to the trellis

You'll have to tie a few times during the season. The first - with a length of shoots of 50 cm. Then as the growth and reach the second tier of wire. Green shoots are tied vertically, no more than 2-3 pcs. together. Do this by twine, bast, waste textile industry or strips of polymer film.

Mounting is carried out in the form of a figure eight, excluding grinding and burns shoots. Where possible, it is better to distribute them at an inclination of 45 degrees. Thus, the illumination of the plant rises, photosynthesis intensifies. Accordingly, the sugar content and the amount of tannic and aromatic substances in the fruits increase.

If the wire is stretched in two rows in the upper layer, then there is no need for tying. Shoots are simply planted between them, where with the help of antennae they are fixed independently.