Traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region. Men's and women's clothing of the peoples of the Volga region

Traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region, like absolutely all national clothes, reflect the regional and social belonging of a person. Volga - the river is long, and as you move along its banks you can observe the emerging difference in national attire.

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The appearance of the national costumes was determined primarily by the customs and traditions of the peoples of the Volga region, which were formed under the influence of the environment and weather conditions. A characteristic feature for each national costume is the finish. Ornament, rooted in prehistoric times, is not without reason called letters from the past. The faith of the ancestors in the inscribed amulets created patterns belonging only to this tribe or nationality, and passed from century to century. This is how the ornaments that came down to us emerged, serving, like embroidery and furs, a peculiar determinant of the suit of a costume for a certain people. But as the longest river of Europe connects all the peoples of the Volga region, and the main part of the national costume - a shirt (especially women's) - is a common and characteristic feature for all national costumes of the peoples of these territories.

Common to all

So, the traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region have one common feature. Soviet archeologist and ethnographer Boris Alekseevich Kuftin called it a "tunic-like cut": shirts of all ethnic groups of the Volga region do not have shoulder seams. Of course, other peoples, such as the ancient Romans or the Japanese, lacked shoulder seams. This was primarily explained by the primitive nature of the conditions in which it was necessary to paint or paint clothes, or something else, but not to note the fact that with the difference of national dresses, such a detail common to all costumes existed, it is impossible. The materials, of which clothing was sewn, were obviously the same, - hemp and flax. It can be assumed that river pearls and crushed mother-of-pearl were used in all Volga clothes. Basically, the traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region: Mordovian, Chuvash, Tatar, peoples of the Middle and Samara Volga regions - differ from each other.

Erzya and Moksha

For comparison, consider first Mordovian costume. Every people, its origin, history is very diverse. Mordva, divided into two subethnoses (moksha and Erzya, having their own languages), is a Finno-Ugric people. Only a third live in Mordovia, the rest - in the adjacent areas and throughout Russia. Mostly confess Orthodoxy, but there are Molokans and Lutherans. And all this from century to century formed national clothes and reflected in them. I must say that the waterways for a long time were the only trade roads connecting neighbors. Communicating among themselves, the peoples of the Volga region borrowed from each other customs, customs, recipes of national cuisines, got acquainted with traditions, adopted elements of dresses and ornaments.

Differences in costumes even inside one ethnic group

So traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region were formed. Mordovian women's outfit is intricate, and men's clothes are simple and convenient. It can be noted that mokshanki national costume is worn constantly, and Erzyanka are only on holidays. And this is not the only difference even in the national costume of one people. Common and absolute for them is the white color of the canvas, the cut of the shirt, the presence of coins of beads and shells in the decorations, as well as the finishing of the dresses with embroidery. The clothes of men are simple and very much like a Russian suit - a shirt, a ruffle, trousers tucked into anonuchi. Panar and ponkst (shirt and pants) for every day were made from cannabis, festive - from linen.

Required Details

An integral part of the costume was a sash, or a Cux, which was always girded with a shirt. He was given great importance. It was made, as a rule, from leather, had a buckle, simple in the form of a ring or in every way decorated. On the waist, either weapons or tools of labor were suspended, and soldiers distinguished them on the belt. On top of the shirt in the summer, Mordovian men wore a light white pajamas (muxhas in Moksha, rutsya at erzi), in the winter - a chapan that resembles a Russian armeniac, a straight cut, with long sleeves, a large smell and a wide collar, or a sheepskin coat cut off at the waist. The most common headgear were felted hats (white or black) with small margins, later, like Russian, factory cap, in winter - hats-earflaps or malachi. On their feet were bast shoes with portraits or onuchi, on holidays - boots. Simple and convenient. But in order to dress up a Mordovian woman, it took several hours and two or three helpers.

Unique Features

The traditional white shirt, decorated with embroidery, was shorter in mokshan, and therefore trousers were necessarily added to it. The richly embroidered belt of Erzyan was replaced by a Pulay - loincloth decoration of beads, sequins, beads, chains. For the first time, an Ershanka girl wore it on the day of majority and did not take off until she was old. On days of great holidays, on top of all this, a belt of beads with red tassels was worn, under which richly decorated towels were tucked in. He was called selge пулогай. And the Moksha women's belt was decorated with Ceska ruchet, put on several pieces and very richly decorated. Thus, it can be seen that the traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region, even within the framework of one people, had significant differences. And in their appearance and manner of wearing it was possible to accurately determine the approximate age of the woman, social position and nationality.

Outerwear

Above all of the above Mordovian women wore a variety of sarafan - kafton-krda. Sometimes they put on a rucja, which resembled a sleeveless shirt with a length above the knees. And we cover and the color of the subethnos they differed, as well as grind them. Headdresses were complex structures reflecting age, family and social status. For them, they did not spare any jewelry. Demi-season clothing was crazy, as well as for men. In winter, women wore sheepskin coats with a lot of scarf under the cutting waist. Shoes from the men were not very different. And, of course, women wore ornaments, mokshanks to traditional rings, beads, bracelets were added breastplates. You can add that in the XIX century an apron was added to the Mordovian women's costume. The example of the national costume of this ethnic group shows that the women's clothing of the peoples of the Volga region in terms of the number of things, intricacies and the variety of jewelry and accessories significantly exceeds the men's costume, and even the women's outfits of other nationalities are much simpler than Mordovian ones.

Bright details

The Turkic-speaking people (the second largest in the Russian Federation) Tatars are divided into three ethnoterritorial groups, one of which is the Volga-Urals. All of them differ from each other, including national clothes. Comparing the traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region, the Tatar can be identified immediately. He is characterized by pointed upward headgear round, broad trousers, beshmet and very beautiful shoes from embossed leather or embroidered velvet. Characteristic and wide shirts, Cossacks and camisoles in the waist. Straight caftans of blue color with sleeves cut from the shoulder, or chekmeni, resemble the ancient Turkic clothing. This suggests that a bright indicator of a person's national identity, which is a traditional costume, having gone a long way of historical development, has preserved the memory of distant ancestors.

A characteristic feature of the costume

A common feature of all Tatars' clothing is its trapezoid shape (the back has always lingered) and the presence of both a man's and a female suit of a shirt (kulmek) and trousers (vyshtan). The women's shirt differed only in length - sometimes it reached the ankle. The Tatar shirt differed from other tunic-like shirts that are included in all traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region, in width and length (for men it reached the knees) and with a collar-stand. Women under the shirt, which, as a rule, had a deep neckline, always had a breastplate. Rich Tatars had shirts of expensive imported fabrics. Trousers differed in that for men they were sewed from striped fabrics (pestry), for women - from monophonic fabrics.

Elegant simplicity

Outer clothing: the Cossack, the Beshmet and the Chekmen - was reptile, with a full back. Men also had a chapan to visit the mosque. A necessary attribute was the belt. And the top women's clothing differed from the male only with ornaments, for which used fur, gimmick, embroidery and decorative stitch. Considering the traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region (Tatar, for example), we can draw the following conclusion: both male and female suits are not very intricate, which does not make them less beautiful. They differ from each other in decorative details and a shirt, which in some versions resembles, rather, a dress with flounces. The main feature of ethnic dress of any ethnos is that it is closely connected with the life of this people, was formed by centuries and was created by the whole ethnic community.

Suit of the Samara region

The national clothes of the peoples of the Samara Volga region are the same for the poor and rich. It differs in quality of production, in the beauty of materials, in the high cost of decor. In Samara, besides Russian, Ukrainians live Chuvash and a lot of Tatars. Therefore, the traditional costumes of the inhabitants of the Samara Volga region are not very different. So, the wide women's shirt kulmek, which is the basis of the national costume of the Samara Tatars, is divided into three types. The first of them is no different from the shirt described above - a wide, straight, similar to a man's. It has a main straight cloth and two lateral, extending downwards, a straight, ribboned incision on the chest. The sleeves were complemented by gussets, at the bottom of the hem was a shuttlecock. All the kulmaks were long. At the shirt of the second kind, flounces rose to the hips, waist, sometimes to the chest. Kulmek of the third kind was more like a dress with a yoke.

The subtleties of the costumes of this territory of the Volga region

A necessary accessory of the women's toilet was a camisole, which was put on top of the kulmek and was sewed from heavy fabrics. A distinctive feature was the close relationship of breast and neck jewelry with a headdress. Elderly women wore a peculiar headscarf richly decorated with a tambour embroidery - orpak. In the manner of wearing a handkerchief it was possible to determine to which Tatar group the woman belongs: to the Samara or Kazan Tatars. The costume of the men of the Samara region differed little from the clothes of other peoples of the Volga region. Unless lateral wedges of kulmek were wider, as a result of which they resembled the clothes of Cossacks. A short jacket with short sleeves was put on top of the shirt, the last was a Cossack. In this area, Muslim men wore richly embroidered skullcap skullcases, the ornamentation on them was vegetative.

Distinctive features of the costumes of the Middle Volga region

National costumes of the peoples of the Middle Volga region echo the above-mentioned outfits, because the Russians, Chuvashes, Mordvins and Tatars reside here. For women's clothing is the same shirt. Wore it with a sarafan of different cuts or with a pony - woolen skirt with a richly decorated hem. The final detail was shugai - a short warm jacket. The role of the blouse, worn over the shirt, was performed by a forehead, a short, a shulpan or armlets. The man's suit was simple, and therefore convenient: a shirt with a sash, striped ports, dressed in shoes. In winter - a warm loose coat.

The absence of striking differences

There were no striking differences between the traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region. Chuvashsky was also not very different, except for the names of the details. All the same tunic-like shirt at the Chuvashes was called siege, and pants with a wide step - yem. In women, siege, adorned with beautiful embroidery, was worn with an allowance at the waist, and over the shirt was put on a cuff (apron). Characteristic were jewelry made of metal plaques and coins. Tukhya, the headdress of the girls, was unique: the shape of her was conical, complemented by her teak (decoration coming down on her forehead) and headphones with ribbons. Shawls of the Tatars of the Middle Volga region were called Tuttar. It should be noted that it was the hats, especially women's, that distinguished the traditional costumes of the peoples of the Volga region. Chuvash male costume differed from others in the color of the pants: they were always white, embroidery on the shirt along the cut could be triangular in shape. The outer clothing was decorated with applique and embroidery. Ornament decorated chest, walked by the smell and hem. The white, straight-backed gown of the shupar had very narrow sleeves.