Plum blooms, but does not bear fruit - what should I do? Treatment of plums from pests and diseases

Sweet, pure, sweet, easily separated from the stone large plum fruits - the dream of any gardener. . Unfortunately, there are situations when the plum blossoms, but does not bear fruit . What to do? You must necessarily understand the problem individually.

Plum tree: cultivation

In the middle zone of the Russian Federation, planting of this tree is concentrated in amateur gardens. As an agricultural product, after processing which you can safely get commercial benefits, the plum has no value:

• Even zoned species do not yield large yields.

• The tree in severe winters if not completely freezes out, then partially damaged.

• The imported varieties can initially differ in high yield and large fruits, then the fruits can sharply sharply sharply.

• Fruiting (depending on the variety) occurs in some varieties from 4-6 years of age.

• должна проводиться постоянно, а это требует неусыпного внимания садовода. Treatment of plum from pests and diseases should be carried out constantly, and this requires the vigilant's continued attention.

• Needs to cultivate the soil in the trunks (does not tolerate weeds).

• Does not like both drought and high humidity.

• Requires compliance with the feeding regime.

Nevertheless, this tree remains a favorite for many gardeners: if the plum begins to fructify, enthusiastic owners during the conversation necessarily boast of a large harvest of pure and fragrant berries.

Plum blooms, but does not bear fruit. What to do?

There may be several reasons for this:

1. In order not to deal with the consideration of others, one must try to remember the name of the plum variety, which was bought and already entered into the age of fruiting. Why is it important? Initially, the plum is a plant self-fertile. This means that cross pollination is necessary to obtain ovaries.

2. The second reason may be an improper planting of the plum when its root neck has been buried. In this situation, the bark begins to pour, and all the forces of the plant go to fight this scourge.

3. Since the plum does not tolerate frost very well, you need to make sure it does not freeze. In this situation, a void is inevitable. More often, however, on the part of the branches the fruits are still formed.

4. The reason can be recurrent frosts at a time when the plum blossoms. Evidence of this will be yellowed (frozen) pistils. And the fruit, even if tied, will fly very quickly.

5. Experienced gardeners call several more weather causes of poor ovary fruit - arid spring, fog, high humidity, low temperature and strong wind.

6. The most incredible, but still not excluded from the list, will be the reason for eating the middle of the flowers with a yellow plum-sausage sawfly. The beetle eats the strokes in the buds, damaging them, thereby preventing the ovary from developing. Even with a very developed sawfly colony, when almost every flower is damaged, ovaries develop. They can then fall off, or the fruit may not form fully, but the ovaries will still be.

7. The plum may not develop the ovary if it does not have enough nutrition. Timely feeding with the alternation of organic matter and minerals will help the tree.

8. A large shade of wood can cause a bloom. To eliminate the need to cut down around the tree and timely cutting out unnecessary branches.

9. The proximity of groundwater will not allow the plum to tie fruit. Marshy soils are therefore not the best for plants, irrigation works are needed.

What if the draining is self-fertilizing?

Unfortunately, till now at sale (in the markets, in supermarkets, in specialized shops, yes even in nurseries) the grade of a plum (well, if there is a tablet or a reminder) is specified, but nobody and anywhere warns about necessity of cross pollination.

It is assumed that the buyer must know the varieties and their characteristics. If the name of the variety is preserved, you just need to check whether it is self-pollinated or not.

If this is one of the varieties that require the neighborhood of another plum, you need to create these conditions: either plant a second tree, or plant on a plum a twig of another variety. Unfortunately, it is necessary to wait for the second seedling to enter the age of fruiting, this can take two to three years, and even if the new seedling was a three-year old.

You can ask neighbors if they have plum seedlings, they are suddenly young and just about to blossom. Important in this situation, the distances to the neighboring plum (from 20 to forty meters), that is, whether bees can transfer pollen.

If the plum already fruited and suddenly ceased, the reason is in removing the pollinator. On the site (or neighbors) , a pollinating tree could be cut.

The reason can be in the uprooting of thorns because of its unaesthetic appearance and prickliness. Here it is important to remember that the plum (according to scientists) once arose as a result of the natural crossing of plum and the turn. Therefore, the blackthorn could just be a pollinator of the plum, if it blossomed with it.

How to choose a planting material for plums

уже давно плодоносящей, достаточно сложно (требуется целый комплекс мер), легче поменять старое дерево или просто посадить новое. As to increase the yield of plum, which has long been fruitful, it is quite difficult (it requires a whole complex of measures), it is easier to change an old tree or simply plant a new one. To determine the grade, it is better to first read the literature, read the articles on the Internet.

To date, a lot of varieties are offered and self-pollinated, and early maturation, and early to begin fruiting.

It is necessary to warn beginning gardeners: do not buy varieties that you do not know about, choose varieties tested, it is better to plant several trees with different maturation periods - early, middle and late. Why? Even if one of the three varieties is caught by one selfless, one of the two remaining ones will pollinate.

You can buy seedlings with both a closed (in the container) root system and with an open system (in this case it should be checked for integrity and damage by rot).

The thickness of the seedling in the place of the root neck should be at least 14 cm.

It is advisable for gardeners to know that if the plum seed is not obtained on the stock (that is, not grafted), there is a possibility that it is an off-plant or is a root shoot of a high-quality plant. In the case of the purchase of the root (even the over-harvest), one must be prepared for the fact that in a few years the entire garden will be in the same brood, it is difficult to fight against this - only complete destruction.

Determination of the place and time of landing

In the middle regions of Russia plum can be planted in autumn, but then there is a great risk that it will not have time to take root.

Therefore, the gardener should know in advance how to plant the plum in the spring. , подсказанное опытными садоводами, предполагает, что после покупки саженца нужно определиться с местом высадки. A step-by-step guide , prompted by experienced gardeners, suggests that after buying a seedling, you need to determine the place of disembarkation.

Plum should be located on a site with direct sunlight, groundwater should not be more than two meters, the distance to the nearest trees (already overgrown, not seedlings) should not be less than four meters.

Planting a plum in the spring is necessary when the kidneys have not yet blossomed (that is, it is at rest).

How to Plant a Plum in Spring: A Step-by-Step Guide

1. For a week (can be 2-3 days) before planting prepare a pit width of 70 cm and the same depth. At the digging it is necessary to separate the upper fertile layer from the lower one. (Usually the depth of the infertile layer in a well-groomed garden is at a depth of thirty, a maximum of forty centimeters). The selected infertile layer (usually clay in the middle regions of the RF) must be removed from the fruit plot and used for household needs.

2. In the fertile layer you need to make a deoxidizer (the plums do not like acidic soils) and mix with the soil (ordinary lime-pushenka or dolomite flour does not quickly deplete the soil before planting). The deoxidizer will need 300-400 grams. Immediately need to make trace elements (on packages usually indicate the number and composition).

3. Just before planting, you need to loosen the bottom of the pit by half a stash.

4. Sprinkle a layer (centimeters 30-30) of fertile land. It can be a purchased soil or a good fatty soil after cucumbers.

5. Then pour a small layer of prepared soil.

6. If the seedling is in a container, it needs to be shed, removed, and checked for integrity of the horse system. Set on a layer of soil so that the root neck was 5-6 cm above the soil level.

7. If the seedling has an open root system, it is necessary to inspect it, make sure it is intact, and remove the damaged and broken roots. Dip the roots in a pre-prepared bolt from a mixture of clay, soil and water. In the center of the pit, drive a peg about 1.5 meters high, from the north side of it install a seedling, placing the roots on the pit. Fill them with a layer of prepared soil, slightly raise the seedling, while the root neck should be 5-6 cm above the soil level. Fix, loosely tied to the support.

8. Around the seedling (closer to the edge of the pit, where there are no roots) around the circle, pour out a complex of mineral fertilizers for the plum (it depends on the composition of the soil, usually superphosphate (300 grams) and potassium sulfate (70 grams)). Although among practicing scientists, breeders, there is an opinion that it is not necessary to feed the plum at the time of planting, since the plant is strong and, with an abundance of food, everything will go to shoots. Fertilizers mixed with soil, shed. Pour out another layer of soil, sip once again, piercing the soil carefully with a stick, thereby allowing air to escape, and soil to compact.

9. Fall asleep completely. Make sure that the root cervix was 1.5 cm higher than the soil of the centimeter. The first subsidence will occur after watering, the final settling will take place in a few days. Highly left root neck, as well as left under the soil, is the cause of the wrong development of the plant.

Fighting mites and sawdust

• алловый клещ и красный садовый клещ. D an allus mite and a red garden mite. Can cause significant damage to the crop (up to 30%). The juice is sucked out of the leaves, as a result - the drying and falling off of the foliage, the creases themselves shrink, dry up. Over the summer season can change from four to seven or eight generations. перед тем как сливе цвести (когда начинает работать первое поколение) , деревья нужно обработать инсектокарицидами ("Данадим", "Фитоверм", "Фуфанол"). In the spring, before the plum blossom (when the first generation starts working) , the trees need to be treated with insecticaricides (Danadim, Fitoverm, Fufanol).

• Cherry mucous sawfly. From the eggs laid on the leaf appear larvae, eating the leaves to the veins. Turn into pupae, part winters, part in August passes a new life cycle, causing even more damage. цветет слива , - опрыскивание "Карбофосом", "Кемифосом", "Рогором", а также биопрепаратами — "Энтобактерином", "Лепитоцидом". Means of struggle before when the plum does not yet blossom is spraying with "Carbophos", "Kemifos", "Rogor", as well as biological preparations - "Entobacterin", "Lepitocide". Tinctures of wormwood and tobacco along with autumn digging of the soil are sufficient for small colonies.

• елтый сливовый пилильщик, черный сливовый пилильщик. Yellow plum sawfly, black plum spruce. Brings a lot of damage to the sink. The female, laying eggs, eats the strokes inside the flower, the ovary does not develop and the color falls off, and in the developed ovary the larvae gnaw the bones, the fruit falls off. до момента, когда слива цветет , при порозовении бутонов, эффективно опрыскивание "Карбофосом", "Энтобактерином", "Лепитоцидом". Control measures - until the time when the plum blossoms , when buds are blooming , spraying effectively with "Carbophos", "Entobacterin", "Lepitocide". Loosening of the trunks and digging the soil reduces the number of sleeping larvae. Shaking on the litter of females in the morning (with high humidity) gives a good result.

Plum Pollinated Aphid

тносится к наиболее злостным вредителям. O is carried to the most malicious pests. около двенадцати поколений, размножающихся в геометрической прогрессии. Over a season can be replaced by about twelve generations, multiplying in geometric progression. слива цвела и появились завязи, первые самки-основательницы поселяются колониями на нижней стороне листьев, начинают питаться соком, лист скручивается. After the plum blossomed and the ovaries appeared, the first female founders colonized the lower side of the leaves, began to feed on the juice, the leaf curled. когда опрыскивать сливу от тли и чем , опытные садоводы дают такие рекомендации: On the question of when to spray a plum from aphids and what , experienced gardeners give such recommendations:

• Before budding, if in the previous year the aphids multiplied, after blossoming and after flowering;

• Immediately after the appearance of the first colonies, then constantly during the ripening period with the periodicity of appearance on the underside of the leaf.

Effective processing of soap-ash solution (infusion of kilograms of ash and half a piece of laundry soap) before and after bud blossoming. не должна обрабатываться против тли. Plum during flowering should not be treated against aphids.

Infusion of marigolds, infusion of peel of oranges, just a solution of laundry soap bring good results. Of the most, perhaps, exotic - sprinkling "Coca-Cola" (one two-liter bottle on a bucket of water).

Актара", "Актеллик", "Аррива". It is desirable to do without pesticides, such as " Akarin" ("Agravertin"), " Aktara", "Aktellik", "Arriva".

Plum Plum Ordinary

Her appetite is amazing: a small caterpillar, laid by a butterfly on the wall of the ovary in the form of an egg, hatching, gnawing at the fruit, sitting in it, chewing and feces all around, can also be taken by the contiguous. The butterfly flies out after the plum blossoms, laying eggs begins at a temperature of about fifteen degrees. Gum release from the fruit is an alarm.

Control measures are both folk and chemical. Traps from fermented compote, beer, kvass - at night the butterflies fly to the smell, drown in the liquid. Smoky with "fragrant" spices - straw with potato and tomato tops, bitter wormwood. Two hours - and butterflies do not want to fly to the sink, which is fumigated. Two times a season, just when the flight of butterflies is observed, it is enough to get rid of them.

There are a lot of chemical means: "Aktara", "Aktellik", "Sonnet", "Bancol", etc. It is necessary to choose the most modern and alternate them with folk.

Diseases of the plum

Plum, like man, has different diseases by nature:

• Viral - smallpox (sharka) with white spots on leaves and fruits (transmitted with seedlings and carried by aphids), ring spot with whitish blurry spots with a middle point falling out from them (transmitted with seedlings and stock). Viruses will not suffer a temperature increase, so it is useful for a seedling when it is heated in water up to forty-five degrees.

• Bacterial - a witch's broom (overgrown with a bunch of branches with a fungus touch, is destroyed only by carving and burning).

• Non-infectious. The main thing is gum. Isolating the juice, the sludge heals the wounds on the bark after trimming. Through the open wound infect the infection, they need to be treated with garden fumes, monitor constantly.

• Fungal diseases - klyasterosporioz, kurchavost, black fungus, moniliosis (gray mold), pockets of plum, coccomicosis, milky shine, polystigmosis, rust.

Virtually all fungal diseases are similar in nature, so to combat them using the same techniques - agrotechnical and treatment with fungicides.

Agrotechnics is reduced to ensuring the opening of the crown to the sun's rays and free air access. Treatment, both preventive and special (with the disease), Bordeaux fluid (three times a season - in autumn, spring and after flowering) gives the best results.