Ukrainian embroidery is for men, women, children. Ukrainian national clothes

Every nation is famous for its special traditions. But, probably, nothing conveys the peculiarities of the mentality of this or that region, like national clothes.

No other outfit is so associated with Ukraine as a traditional embroidered shirt. Many people own the art of decorating clothes with various ornaments, but Ukrainian embroidery is not just beautiful patterns, but a whole system of symbols and signs that have a special meaning for Ukrainians.

History of embroidery

Practically all the peoples of the world have a tradition of decorating clothes with different embroidery. So, back in the days of Ancient Greece, the Scythians used to make a special drawing on the shirts of both soldiers and ordinary inhabitants.

On the territory of Ukraine, in the Cherkassy region, archaeologists have found drawings dated to the 6th century AD. E., which depicts men in embroidered shirts. However, in the old chronicles for centuries it has been pointed out that even then the people in the territory of modern Ukraine wore special clothes with embroidered designs. But, alas, only well preserved samples of embroideries of the last centuries, which can now be seen in various museums.

Ability to embroider was very appreciated, and masters of embroideries were always in the honor. Embroidered girls, women and grandmothers, who passed on knowledge to their children and grandchildren.

They decorated embroidery with everyday as well as ritual clothing, shirts, dresses, scarves, towels. Moreover - ornamented clothes were in every house. And the more "splendid" and detailed the picture, the better mistress was the master.

A special ornament, which differs depending on the region of the country, was to protect a person from evil spirits, bring health, happiness and luck. For example, children were given embroidery at birth, to protect them from an evil eye.

Traditional Ornaments

All traditional Ukrainian patterns are divided into 3 large groups: geometric, plant and animal. And despite the fact that each region had its own peculiarities of embroidery, some were equivalent to the whole people.

Geometric symbols originate from paganism and are common to all Slavic peoples. So, the embroidered cross in a circle is a symbol of the world purifying from the evil of the sun, a rhombus is a female symbol bringing good luck and prosperity, horizontal lines are signs of the earth and fertility, and undulating - water and vital energy.

Vegetable ornaments were embroidered for different purposes. Oak leaves - for strength, grapes - for well-being, viburnum was a symbol of beauty. Only nature can give all the best, therefore it was honored and depicted on fabrics so that the bearer could bring only good into his life. Ukrainian women's embroideries were often decorated with flowers, leaves and berries.

The images of animals often protected people from evil forces. And birds basically displayed good news and events that occur or will occur in people's lives.

Colors and seams of embroidery

According to some information, there were several dozen embroidery methods. However, over time, Ukrainian folk clothes became traditionally decorated with the help of several techniques: a cross, a semi-cross, a "forward needle" and a smooth surface. Each of the seams was typical for different compositions and individual regions of the country.

Of great importance was the color of the threads that embroidered the Ukrainian shirt embroidered. Red - love and protection, blue - soul and sky, green - life, black - death. Depending on the region, the canvas materials and seams also changed, and colors were added: yellow, gold, brown. But traditional red and black almost always existed on embroidered products.

Embroidery of the western regions

Ornaments differed not only in different areas, but also in neighboring villages. Often in the tradition of investing in the history of the region, its moods and emotions.

So, for the Carpathian region (Transcarpathia, Lviv, Ivano-Frankivsk and Chernivtsi) are characterized as dense, and "light" drawings.

In Lviv, it is customary to embroider small patterns with black threads so that the base is visible. Here, geometric and floral motifs are used together.

Slightly denser and more brightly decorated national clothes in the Chernovtsy region: large flowers are embroidered smoothly or crossed with black, burgundy and even gold threads

In Transcarpathia and Ivano-Frankivsk region, it is customary to "cover" the canvas with a geometric pattern and use the entire national range of colors.

In Polissya (Volyn, Rivne and Zhytomyr regions) vyshyvanki differ from others in clear geometry and repetitive patterns.

Volynsky and Rivne regions are characterized by white thread embroidery. Here the patterns on national clothes are rather small and detailed.

In Zhytomyr region, Ukrainian embroidery is also decorated with plant motifs: buds of flowers and intricate leaves. In addition to black, they use red and green colors.

The regions of Podillia (Ternopil, Khmelnitsky and Vinnitsa) were given through their embroidery and a complex history of the territory. The local cities and villages often became a battleground and were attacked by enemies.

So, Ternopil and Khmelnytsky national clothes were decorated with heavy dark embroidery with thick threads. Black color and strict geometric lines prevailed.

The main colors of embroideries from Vinnytsia region are black and red, but here the pattern is already slightly more transparent and smaller.

Central and Northern Ukraine

The central region (Chernigov, Kiev, Cherkasy and Kirovograd regions) are lush and detailed patterns, most often red and black. Here you can often find plant motifs, which are intricately intertwined.

In the Kiev, Cherkasy and Kirovograd regions, plant motifs form a thoughtful and detailed composition. Bunches of grapes with antennae, hops (a symbol of youth) - all red and black threads.

But Chernihiv embroideries can rightfully be considered the most "rich" in Ukraine. Traditionally, the whole pattern was very small and detailed. The craftsmen worked on these shirts for a very long time, trying to capture every character on them and put their whole soul into them.

Traditional for Poltava and Sumy regions was considered a small pattern embroidered with smooth white and black threads. The boundaries of the compositions were distinguished by a thin black thread.

National clothes of the eastern region

Kharkov craftsmen used mainly the traditions of central Ukraine. There are also plant motifs made with a rather coarse thread, which makes the drawing volumetric. Also, in addition to black and white, red was also used.

In Lugansk and Donetsk regions, patterns are also similar to the central regions: a fairly small pattern with geometric and floral patterns. However, here, unlike many other regions, the blue color also took root.

The main colors of the Dnipropetrovsk and Zaporozhye regions are red and black. Here are common clear and simple patterns, which most often decorated with collars and sleeves.

Embroidery of the southern edge

In Odessa, Mykolaiv and Kherson regions, traditional was not only ornament, but also special forms of shirts.

So, in the Mykolayiv region there were special collars and a quadrangular cutout, and the shirt was not collected at the wrists. Vegetative motifs predominate, red, black and blue.

In the Odessa region Ukrainian vyshyvanka gathered at the sleeves and at the collar. Traditionally, geometric and floral ornament prevailed, which was applied to the lower part of the sleeves, and a thin strip of embroidery was embroidered along their edges. The main colors are red, blue, black and yellow.

Ukrainian shirts embroidered in the Kherson region decorated with images of various plants, embroidered red and black.

Women's and men's embroidery

The girls embroidered clothes for themselves, their chosen ones, and children. Since in the house the landlady is the keeper of the home, it was her duty to protect all those close to the evil forces, to give them all her love. Therefore, embroidered in any free minute, everywhere and always.

Ukrainian women's embroidery was often decorated with plant motifs. And the color of the drawing was different: blue or white, and the first one - for older women. But embroidered white on white - the shirt that was supposed to be for all girls. Ukrainian embroidered dresses were decorated in the same way as shirts, but separately the line of drawing made the skirts below.

For men, white shirts with a detailed pattern were considered traditional. It is not surprising: firstly, the pattern was supposed to protect the man on the battlefield, and secondly, it is an indicator that his wife is a good hostess. In addition to black and red, embroidered blue and red patterns - the only option when the male embroidery can be blue.

Girls embroidered both everyday and festive clothes, men's, children's embroideries, dresses, scarves, wedding towels, in some regions - even belts.

Cloth almost always took white. Modern black embroidery is a completely absurd phenomenon, they were not embroidered even during wars. A real shirt should be white or gray, perfectly clean and whole.

Modern Ukrainian embroidery

Since the end of the 19th century, embroideries are being worn with everyday European clothes. At that time representatives of the Ukrainian intelligentsia began dressing to emphasize their belonging to the people.

Also the attitude to embroidery in general as to craft has also changed. More often young people preferred to buy embroidered embroidered on special machines.

During the Second World War, many museums were destroyed, in which old Ukrainian folk clothes were kept. Therefore, today it is rather difficult to meet such a historical relic.

Because of the great demand in Ukraine for such clothes, often there are "wrong" embroideries. Often on shirts you can find a nonexistent or unsuitable pattern, for example, such that traditionally embroider on kerchiefs or wedding towels. Also often choose unsuitable for sex or age colors, decorate children's shirts with symbols of fertility. The right traditions were preserved only by those craftsmen, whose knowledge is passed down from generation to generation.

A few facts about embroideries

• Geometric patterns remained from pagan traditions, and plant and animal appeared much later.
• According to legend, Chumak trusted to wash his shirt only for his chosen one - as a sign of loyalty and infinite love. Also the girl had the right to erase embroidered only her husband.
• The most unusual are the embroideries of Borshev (Ternopil region). This is due to the fact that this area was often attacked by the Tatars, robbed and killed residents. According to legend, during one of the raids they killed almost all the men in the city, after which for many years women only embroidered black dense patterns - as a sign of grief and sorrow for the dead.
• Often, when the guy did not know which of the girls to choose his wife, he got acquainted with her "wardrobe": the more she has embroidered clothes, the better it is in everyday life, which means - the ideal woman.
• Learning to embroider began already at age 6, and soon the girl was obliged to embroider at least one shirt. Men's embroidery was prepared before the wedding and was used as a wedding towel.