To the Beginning Strain Stabilizer User Or How to Choose the Stabilizer of the Strain for Yourself At Home, With This, Without Spending Extra Money.

With the problem of poor-quality electricity supply at home, more and more nature lovers come across: dacha owners, owners of private houses and cottages. Voltage of 150-180 Volts, unfortunately, becomes the norm. The way out of this situation is the renewal of the substations that lead the wires, but this is the responsibility of single villages and villages. In general, the solution of the problem is shifted to the shoulders of the owner of the house. And the solution to the problem is to establish a voltage regulator. Often, unfortunately, the installation of the stabilizer is done by a non-professional electrician, and an amateur-user with experience who "podnavatalsya" experience for his life and is now trying to earn some money on this. Just want to say that before buying a voltage regulator, ask the seller if they have an installation wizard. If there is, this removes the headache from the question of the correct connection and proper operation of the voltage regulator. For example, the company Stabovoz (stabovoz.ru) offers a fairly competent master, who not only correctly installs, but also checks the condition of your wiring, the correct division of the phase, etc.

Before buying a voltage regulator, you need to know the answers to the following questions:

1. How many phases in the house
2. If a single-phase network, is the phase
3. What is the minimum voltage in the network
4. The total power of the entire load (with simultaneous start and simultaneous start of the engines of refrigerators, washing machines, etc.)
5. What is the value of the introductory machine (if the three-phase network is what is the value of the three automata).

Knowing the answers to these questions, you can already properly choose a voltage regulator.

So let's say the total power of your load is 8 kW (it's important not to confuse KVT and KVA). Kilowatt is equal to kilovoltamper only in the case of an active load (loads without an engine, without large chokes and capacitors). The active load is, for example: lamps, stoves, heaters, electric stoves. Reactive load is a washing machine, pumps, refrigerator, drills, machine tools, etc. As you can see, the entire reactive load has an engine. To convert them to watts, the power of the device with reactive load should be divided by 0.7 (this is averaged, but it works well). For example, a washing machine 2 kVA = 2 / 0,7 = 2,85 kW. And so on, you can calculate all the positions. If it is not convenient to call experts, they will help to choose the correct nominal value. For example, the company Santek (www.suntek.su) has on its website as a calculator the calculation of on-line, and quite experienced specialists in calculating the power of the selected stabilizer.

Then a very important point in choosing a stabilizer is to see from what voltage the stabilizer works at full power. There are models that operate at full power with 190 volts, and for example at 170 V - "pull out" only 70; Power. That is, such a 10 kVA stabilizer at 170 V can only be loaded with 7 kVA. It is optimal to take a stabilizer which raises from the lowest voltage. For example, with 140 V, SUNTEK stabilizers operate at full capacity.

The next step is to study the levels of protection, whether there is a lightning protection at the top, at the bottom. Examine the body - it is desirable that it is metal (does not point the outline to the equipment) and there may be hinged / floor enclosures.

Now you all know about the stabilizer, you know what you want - choose the parameters on the Internet, in the store, do not go wrong!

I also want to give a moment to the three-phase network. If you have a three-phase network suitable for the house (object) , then many buyers have a choice between acquiring a three-phase stabilizer and three single-phase ones.

Schematically, the three-phase stabilizer consists of three single-phase stabilizers and a phase-lock device that monitors the phase-to-phase voltage and, in the event of a voltage failure at one phase, turns off the voltage in the remaining phases. This is done to protect the three-phase load. Therefore it is important if you have a three-phase load - you should definitely take a three-phase stabilizer. In other cases it is more convenient to take three single-phase ones. Because When the voltage disappears on one of the phases, the rest will work. It also turns out that three single-phase stabilizers are cheaper than one three-phase stabilizer.

When connecting voltage regulators to a three-phase network, the following conditions must be met:

1. Stabilizers should be installed on each phase. Do not install stabilizers for one or two phases, leaving the rest (no) stabilized.

2. The level of workload for each voltage regulator should be approximately the same. Otherwise, there is a current on the zero wire, which can cause the stabilizer to go out of operation (the stabilizer will give an error).

3. Do not connect single - phase voltage regulators to a three-phase network if there is a three-phase load.

4. It is not possible to connect voltage regulators to a three-phase network if the difference in the line voltages between phases exceeds 20-25%.

When choosing the nominal value, it should be understood that if three-phase voltage is applied to you, for example 9000 VA, then 3000 VA is divided into a phase, that is, three single-phase voltages of 3000 VA are required.

We wish you to make the right choice!