The ABC of Nursing. Shampoo. - Biologically active additives

Epigraph : No problem can be too small to not pay attention to it. No problem can be too big to not be taken for it ...

In past articles, we started talking about washing hair, or rather about ways of caring for them. In addition, we tried to understand the components that are necessarily introduced into modern products, focusing on shampoos. Today we will talk about useful bioadditives - the main essence of the modern product for care. The conversation will be long and not much even boring, but after a couple of such articles you will be able to understand shampoos by composition, and not reading advertising slogans.

Modern shampoos have ceased to be a means of ordinary hygiene and have become a very powerful "complex" that affects the hair and scalp. In addition to the usual "cleansing" and "removal", they face the task of "effectively affecting the scalp" - and sometimes even "treating" and "restoring," that is, it is no longer just working on the surface of the cuticle, but also "penetrating into the deep layers Hair "," compensating "or even" prosthetizing "the lost parts of the protein structure of the hair (keratin and cystine), which is already quite an easy task.

In principle, reading further, do not narrow yourself only to the topic of "shampoo", because, in fact, there is no difference between "where" and "in what form" the supplement is introduced - the principle of its impact will not change exactly, because nature can not be changed.

In the last article, we examined the role and composition of all the functional additives and left us only "useful supplements". Frankly, we will only consider "basic" or "frequently occurring" supplements, as the imagination of technologists and manufacturers to catch up with me - a simple hairdresser and only for long-distance (in the last, it is possible to say, life) master of chemistry is not possible.

Proteins (proteins, polypeptides)

Proteins are high-molecular organic nitrogen-containing substances, which are the most important part of any living organism. In living organisms, the amino acid composition of proteins is determined by the genetic code, with natural (ie natural) synthesis, in most cases 20 standard amino acids are used, but in general it is believed that protein molecules contain from 100 to 10,000 amino acids. Proteins dissolve differently in water and this is different from each other (most proteins in water dissolve). Insoluble proteins include, for example, Keratin (hair, mammal hair, feathers of birds, etc.) and fibroin (is part of silk and cobwebs) ... By chemical composition, proteins are divided into: simple - they consist only of amino acid residues, and complex - besides amino acids can contain more Any connections. If these are metals, then such proteins are called metalloproteids, if carbohydrates are called glycoproteins, if fats, then lipoproteins, if nucleic acids are nucleoproteins. According to their functions, proteins are divided into: structural - a kind of reinforcement, which shapes the cells and many organoids. Collagen and elastin are the main components of the intercellular substance of connective tissue (for example, cartilage), and from another structural protein of keratin There are hair, nails, feathers of birds and some shells; Catalytic - ensure the necessary biochemical reactions; Transport - carry out the transfer of substances into and out of the cell; Protective - associated with the human immune system; Hormones - provide regulation of many vital processes (for example, growth, puberty, etc.). By the structure of molecules, proteins are divided into: fibrillar - they have a linear structure of molecules that form fibers (for example, the cortex of the hair, muscle, skin, etc.). They are fibrous substances, mostly insoluble in water and salt solutions. Provide the tissues with plasticity, elasticity and incredible durability; Globular molecules are folded into a ball = globule (almost all known enzymes, antibodies, some hormones refer to).

The possibilities of using proteins in care products

You can talk about proteins for a long time, but I'm afraid that the above was not particularly interesting or understandable to you. It is important to understand that, despite the wide range and variety of properties and functions, the possibilities of using proteins in skin care and hair care compositions are limited because of their size: they are very large molecules, and by themselves they can not penetrate through the unaffected Skin. In addition, there are studies that suggest that the immune system reacts very strongly to the appearance of foreign proteins, triggering the processes of inflammation and allergic reactions (Attention! Here is what the essence of your problems is!). However, modern cosmeceuticals actively use proteins, especially of animal origin, which can have a positive effect even with the skin application (the most popular compensating proteins are collagen, elastin, keratin and various antioxidants). Special attention is now paid to proteins of vegetable origin (beans, soy - very popular and you can say "fashionable", wheat, oats, almonds, etc.) and seafood proteins that are not found in the human body (marine collagen, chitosan). The main useful properties of proteins in hair care products and scalp: 1. good absorption of the skin; 2. the possibility of penetration through the horny layers of the skin to the hair follicles; 3. the effect of film formation and the creation of protection from the aggression of the external environment; 4. Reduction of irritations from surfactants in shampoos and balms; 5. restriction of swelling of hair; 6. improvement of elasticity and plasticity of hair and scalp; 7. Enhance the shine of the hair.

Hydrolyzates In a natural form, proteins are fairly poorly soluble, which means they are not suitable for use in cosmetics. In addition, do not forget about their huge size, it is for this reason that proteins (of any origin) are converted into hydrolysates .

Under the influence of water, temperature and special enzymes, long protein molecules are split into simpler ones, that is, smaller in size. These methods in chemistry are called acid and enzymatic hydrolysis. Hydrolysis products - hydrolysates - are biologically active, but they do not have allergic and irritating effects of high-grade proteins. Quite often, hydrolysates are endowed with the properties of cations, that is, "+" charged particles, which allows them to exhibit a high degree of substantivity (subsidence) to the hair. That is, these components are adsorbed on the hair 3 times better than simple hydrolysates, which means they provide what is now very fashionable to call a "prolonged" effect, that is, a "long-lasting" effect.

Hydrolyzed keratin - is obtained by hydrolysis from wool, hooves and horns of cattle and show the greatest identity to the skin and hair. It is a mixture of amino acids, some of which contain sulfur, silicic acid and the like. To date, chemists have learned to introduce them not only in hair care products, but even in styling! Proteziruet the lost parts of the hair as on the cuticle (ironing it), and in the deep layers of the hair. Promotes hair strengthening and stimulates their growth.

Collagen hydrolyzate - obtained from the skin, cartilage and tendons of cattle, has a very complex amino acid composition (of the 16 basic amino acids contains 9). It promotes very strong moisturizing of the hair and scalp, regenerates and compensates for the loss of amino acids in the skin, provides a nourishing and wound healing effect. Effectively fills the voids inside the hair, making them visually and tactile thicker and denser. Ideal filler for thin, lifeless, prone to hair loss. Often introduced into the funds "for volume" and in conjunction with cellulose creates a fairly persistent and, most importantly, a noticeable effect

Elastin hydrolyzate - is more often obtained from connective tissues of large horned animals. It is well absorbed by the skin and has a moisture retaining ability, restores the elasticity of skin tissues and is used to care for scalp for various purposes.

Wheat gluten hydrolyzate - bind free - SH groups (which are indicators of damaged hair), that is, in fact restore the lost chemical bonds inside and on the surface of the hair. In large quantities contain glutamic acid , which together with other amino acids provides nutrition and protection of damaged hair. It has a moisturizing effect on the skin and hair, forming a protective film on the surface. Favorably affects the hair, restoring their shine and improving elasticity. In skin care products, it actively neutralizes the effect of free radicals, thanks to vitamin E, which is especially important in the lines for age-related hair.

Milk hydrolyzate - has an incredibly high ability to restore the structure of the hair, thanks to amino acids such as glutamine, aspartic and lysine. It is recommended as an effective moisturizer in creams, emulsions and shampoos. Casein, which is also part of the composition has the ability to remove irritations and therefore is often introduced into formulations for sensitive and inflamed skin.

Soy hydrolyzate - has a high content of glutamic and aspartic acids. Both acids restore cystine and cysteine bridges, which means they have the ability to rejuvenate fibrillar proteins, even on very deep layers of hair. Relieves hair from static electricity and makes it easier to comb both wet and dry hair, giving them shine. Provide protection of the skin and hair from moisture loss even at a fairly significant increase in temperature (thermal effects).

Yeast hydrolyzate - besides amino acids contains a huge amount of vitamins, especially group B and enzymes. Provides powerful and confident nutrition to the scalp, rejuvenating it, through increased regeneration.

Chitosan hydrolyzate is a unique building material containing amino acids and nucleoproteins derived from the shells of mollusks living in the depths of the sea. For deep hair prosthetics, has a long restoring effect and prevents the formation of split ends and brittleness. Promotes the natural increase in the volume of fine hair, increases the strength of the hair, increases the resistance of the hair to various chemical treatments. Restores and smoothes the cuticle. Replenishes and retains the optimal balance of vitamins and moisture, has antimicrobial properties.

Amino acids, as we have already explained, form proteins, connecting with each other with the help of polypeptide bonds. According to the modern point of view, with the help of regulatory peptides, individual cells and entire organs communicate with each other. Very many hormones (insulin, somatotropin, endorphin) are peptides. They work in our brain, influencing our state of health, regulating the level of activity of immune cells. Affect the development and cessation of inflammatory processes, protecting against pathogenic organisms and toxins. It is for this reason that peptides are often used in drugs designed to fight bacteria (in oily skin care products), fungi (in dandruff remedies) and skin inflammation (in the means for sensitive skin). Peptides help to improve the condition of weak and damaged hair. Especially powerful on the hair are specific peptides glycine , valine and lysine .

Lipids (fats)

They play a big role in the functioning of the scalp and hair. The sebaceous glands open at the mouth of the hair follicle, and the fat gets on both the hair shaft, forming a protective fatty layer (the so-called fatty acid layer), and on the scalp. In fact, the function of shampoo is to remove not only dirt, but also fats. However, the removal of all fat leads not only to the discomfort of excessive dryness of the scalp, but also to the loss of the protective function of the skin. In addition, it has long been known to everyone that a strong, almost total removal of fat by shampoo results in even more excretion of it. This is why, to restore the lipid layer, natural for healthy skin, introduce modified fats - esters of fatty acids and oils. Unfortunately, natural vegetable oils and animal fats quite heavily overload - they outlast the skin and hair.

Fats can interact with the skin in two ways: either spreading over the surface of the skin, making it softer and velvety is their traditional action; Or penetrate into the depth of the epidermis and act already as biologically active substances.

Ceramides = sphingolipids Together with fatty acids and cholesterol, ceramides are the basis of the lipid mantle of the stratum corneum. In hair and skin, ceramides fill the intercellular space, appearing as a kind of cementing substance keratin cells. The introduction of ceramides in the composition of shampoos and balms improves the structure of the hair, especially after staining, chemical wave, insolation.

Lanolin - washed off with sheep's wool, produced by sebaceous and sweat glands of sheep. Well softens the skin, eliminates peeling, and is therefore recommended for the care of dry, prone to irritation of the skin. Has a strong softening effect, retains elasticity and elasticity to hair and skin.

Cryolane = liquid lanolin (lanolin oil) - in comparison with lanolin, it easily penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin and hair, leaving no sensations of stickiness and fatness. It is often used in lines for sensitive skin, for frequent washing and for children's cosmetics.

Terlan = hard lanolin - in comparison with lanolin has a lower water retention ability, but it creates a denser coating on the surface of hair and skin. It is introduced into the composition of hair creams and balms. Different lanolin derivatives (acetylated lanolin) are used to create a surface film in all types of styling and hair lacquers.

Spermaceti is a kind of wax that is contained in a special cavity of the sperm whale and serves it for echolocation. In its composition, spermaceti is close to waxes found in human skin fat, therefore it is as much as possible related to human skin and, therefore, rarely causes allergic reactions. In connection with the ban on hunting sperm whales, its synthetic substitutes are used. Spermacetum has a regenerating effect on the skin, effective even in the treatment of eczema, neurodermatitis and chemical burns. It is formulated for the care of sensitive skin prone to irritation.

Ungulate fat is obtained by the heating of fat tissues of cattle limbs. It is unique in that it contains incredibly important for the elasticity of hair and skin oleic, palmitic, stearic, linoleic and lanolin acids, as well as vitamins F. It is used in the means for strengthening hair and hair follicles. Stimulates hair growth, through the production of collagen (insufficient production of which leads to aging and destruction of hair roots). Linoleic and linolenic acids are necessary for the synthesis of elements that make up cellular tissue.

Egg oil - extracted from the egg yolk. This oil is a rich source of phospholipids and fat-soluble vitamins A, E, D. Used in rejuvenating lines, dry skin and hair products.

Vegetable oils

Oils are fats derived from plants. At room temperature, most oils are fluids except cocoa butter, palm oil, coconut oil and shea butter. Unfortunately, the oils are quite sensitive to changes in the external environment (heating, microorganisms), which creates certain problems for their use. Because of the need to add fairly serious preservatives or antioxidants, vegetable oils quite often cause allergies.

About oil, you can talk for a long time and still will not be enough, because it is oil from ancient times, most actively used in all branches of cosmetology. And for this I will only say that in addition to fatty acids (in fact, this is oil) of different kinds (saturated and unsaturated), they contain waxes, phytosterols, phospholipids and other substances that favorably affect the skin and hair. But, frankly, the value is small, as a cosmetic ingredient, is largely determined by the list contained in it of fat-soluble vitamins.

Olive oil - refers to the oldest food and cosmetic products. The special value is determined by the huge content of tocopherol, which possesses the most powerful antioxidant and moisturizing properties.

Sunflower oil is a product of pressing or extraction of sunflower seeds. Has moisturizing and softening properties. It is used in skin care products to normalize the function of sebaceous glands and restore normal pH, in hair products - as a film former protecting from aggression of the external environment and weak UV filter.

A very strong and delicate natural emulsifier is extracted from sunflower - lecithin (which we often associate with egg yolks). It is important for humans in that it is the main structural element of cell membranes (and in most living organisms). Lecithin itself has an absolutely amazing softening effect on the skin, stimulating regeneration, wound healing and increasing the immune activity of keratin cells. It is especially effective in combination with vitamins A, D, B1, B6, PP. Often introduced into products for the care of dry, sensitive and prone to irritation skin, as well as for very-very dry hair.

Jojoba oil - is obtained from the evergreen shrub of jojoba and, frankly speaking. From the point of view of chemistry, this is not oil at all, rather liquid wax. This is interesting, because it is due to this property that jojoba oil / wax is very gratefully perceived by the skin of a person, because approximately 25% of a man's skin fat is waxes that are close in composition to jojoba oil! Mixed with the ingredients of sebum on the surface of the skin, it easily wilts through the protective barrier of the skin, significantly reducing the loss of water - moisturizes the skin, making it more elastic and youthful. Also, does not delay the evaporation of gases and water vapor - that is, creates a semi-impermeable protective layer that does not prevent the breathing of cells! Effectively works on smoothing the cuticle of hair, makes them soft and shiny. Promotes delicate cleansing of the scalp, which is especially valuable when working with sensitive skin and prone to hair loss. Normalizes the growth and development of hair follicles.

Wheat germ oil - is obtained from germinal cereal flakes of hard varieties that remain in the waste after processing the grain for flour. They are rich in vitamins E, F and group B, mineral salts, proteins, microelements with iron, zinc, potassium, sulfur, phosphorus, linoleic, linolenic and oleic acids. Wheat germ oil contains the maximum amount of vitamin E from all known vegetable oils. In this case, the most active forms of tocopherol predominate in it. The rich vitamin composition of the oil is due to the widespread use of oil in cosmetics. It helps to maintain and restore the elasticity and firmness of the skin, strengthens the hair, keeps them fresh, normalizes intracellular metabolism. It is used in the formulation of products for dry brittle hair, as well as in products for dry, aging, cracked skin. It eliminates skin peeling, itching, restores the normal water-lipid mantle of the epidermis and is therefore useful in psoriasis, eczema, sunburn. Protects hair and skin from sun radiation by covering them with a protective film. Gives the hair flexibility and shine. However, the oil of embryos should be carefully applied to people prone to allergies.

Grape seed oil - the most fashionable few recent years, the most effective natural moisturizing additive in cosmetics. It contains a huge amount of vitamins, lecithin, pectin substances, glucose and even proteins. Just like the young wine, the oil contains bio-phenols , which are very effective antioxidants and neutralize the effect of free radicals that cause premature aging of the human body. It normalizes the system of protecting cells from free radicals, restores the cells' ability to regenerate, preventing their aging. Oil smooths dry skin, moisturizes and nourishes it, eliminates irritation and peeling, peculiar to sensitive skin. Grape seed oil is injected into oily skin, as it normalizes the activity of sebaceous glands. Restores dry and damaged hair, moistening even the deepest layers.

Shea butter (or Karite) - is derived from the fruit of an African greengrocer. The oil stimulates the synthesis of collagen in the skin, therefore it is used in the means for aging skin and to strengthen the hair follicles of thin and prone to hair loss. In addition, it actively protects the skin and hair from sunburn. Introduced into modern styling, combining strong care, as they have a pronounced thermal effect.

Coconut oil - is obtained from the crushed pulp of coconut fruit. The oil contains lauric, miramistinic acid, and caprylic and capric acid in an amount of up to 17%, which makes coconut oil incredibly resistant to oxidation. In cosmetics, it is used in the production of shampoos and balms for weakened and thin hair.

Cocoa butter - is obtained from the fruits / beans of the evergreen tropical cocoa tree. In large quantities contains lauric, stearic, oleic and linoleic acids, as well as theobromine, caffeine, sugars, vitamins H, D, PP and B, plant proteins and tannins. Has an emollient, healing and toning effect. It is included in the composition of hair strengthening and hair follicles, as a moisturizer for skin prone to fat.

Flaxseed oil is a source of biologically active phytosterols, phytoncides and a huge amount of linoleic and linolenic acids. It also contains substances that regulate the hormonal status of a person, which provides antitumor, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal effects on the skin. Is it necessary to add anything?

Castor oil - is obtained from fresh, mature, liberated from the shells of castor oil seeds. Most actively used in hair care products, as it stimulates their growth, in addition, it gives them shine and silky. Included in the composition of shampoos for thin, prone to hair loss, to stimulate their growth and strengthen the hair follicles.

Vitamins

Biological role in human life: The connection between vitamins and human health has been established for a long time. Ancient Greek physician (for example, Galen) wrote in his works that life without vitamins is impossible. And the very name "vitamin" is nothing else than the Latin "vita" - life. Of course, since the founders of medicine, knowledge has grown so much that the attitude to the culture of using vitamins has changed. For example, it was previously thought that they can not penetrate the skin and hair, and therefore the only way to compensate for these "catalysts of the most important biochemical reactions" was to use them for food.

The lack of vitamins leads to various diseases (sometimes even irreversible), including premature aging (collagen, keratin and basic amino acids collapses), which affects the condition and appearance of the skin and hair. To compensate for vitamin starvation in skin and hair care products, various vitamins are added that moisturize and nourish the scalp, accelerate the regeneration processes, protect the skin and hair from free radicals and sun rays, and also stimulate the growth of healthy hair.

The chemical nature: Vitamins are a special series of organic substances that can not be attributed to any one class of chemical compounds. They have a different chemical structure. Different formulas, and hence different properties. There is only one thing that unites them: they can not be synthesized in human cells in sufficient quantity, therefore they must necessarily enter the body from the outside. According to modern concepts, vitamins in human cells, when combined with a protein, are converted into enzymes.

Traditionally, vitamins are divided into groups, possibly dissolved: fat-soluble (vitamins A, E, D, F) and water-soluble (part of vitamins B-2,5,6, vitamins C, H, P, PP). The source of vitamins are plants ( natural vitamins , which are good, but very poorly digested by the body and persist), as they are obtained through chemical or microbiological synthesis (artificial vitamins - fairly safe and perfectly absorbed by the body).

Important: When choosing cosmetics that contain vitamin supplements, one must be very attentive to the "shelf life", since many vitamins are destroyed during long-term storage. In addition, a high concentration of vitamins (usually a mass fraction of them varies from 0.5 to 3%, depending on the characteristics of the drugs and financial considerations) can cause a rather noticeable allergy, that in our "dermatologically" not a happy time - no matter!

And most importantly - remember that in addition to care products, vitamins should regularly enter your body with food! Vitamins A, D, K, B2, B5, B6, C, E, F, Q, P and H are necessary for a healthy and therefore beautiful appearance, but vitamins A, E, C are important for hair and scalp , B5 and N.

Vitamin A or retinol - is necessary for the normal development of skin and hair. It prevents wrinkles formation, promotes skin regeneration, increases skin immunity, is an antioxidant, normalizes the process of keratin cells formation. Retinol restores the structure of damaged hair, and its deficiency can lead to loss of hair shine and even to their loss. In addition to strengthening hair, vitamin A gives them elasticity and shine. Very often it is introduced into preparations for thin, lifeless hair, prone to loss, as well as for dry brittle hair.

Deficiency of vitamin A can cause blockage of sebaceous glands, the consequence of which will be the fineness and fragility of hair, inflammation, acne, atheroma and as an apotheosis - seborrhea.

Contained in : liver (especially fish); Butter, cream and whole milk; In egg yolks; In plant products: dried apricots, carrots, blackberries, gooseberries, sea buckthorn, mountain ash and other yellow, orange and red vegetables, as well as leafy greens.

Vitamin B1 or thiamine - heals wounds, regenerates skin and hair. He treats acne, dermatitis, pigment spots, seborrhea. Vitamin B1 is involved in the synthesis of protein, which is necessary for the health of hair. Deficiency of thiamine leads to poor hair growth, and lose their vital healthy shine.

Contained in: porridge of different cereals (preferably uncleaned); Bread from wholemeal and rye flour; Seeds.

Vitamin B2 or riboflavin - is not often called a vitamin of growth. Stimulates the production of energy in cells. Prevents hair loss. Treats acne, seborrhea. Helps keep hair healthy, fresh and beautiful. If your hair roots quickly become fat, but there are dry tips, you probably do not have enough of this vitamin. The daily requirement of an adult in riboflavin is 2 mg, but it is consumed very quickly (faster among the rest of the B vitamins), so pay special attention to vitamin B2.

Contained in: dairy products, eggs, bread, beer, meat and especially in the kidneys and liver of animals.

Vitamin B5 or D-panthenol, pantothenic acid - moisturizes, soothes, relieves irritation and itching, has a strong anti-aging and smoothing effect, restores and protects the skin, relieves inflammation. It is absorbed by hair better than other vitamins, and therefore it is used more often. It has a conditioning effect, helps to retain moisture, prevents fragility of hair. In balms for hair removes a feeling of dryness and can even thicken hair by 10-15%, without making them heavier. Perfectly and quickly restoring the damaged structure of even very damaged hair. Smoothes the surface of the hair, making it shiny and silky. Quite often it is introduced in the line combining styling and care, since it greatly facilitates combing and protects hair with all types of heat treatment (hair dryer, iron).

The ability of pantothenic acid to strengthen hair bulbs, through the enhancement of the supply of oxygen to the hair, is actively used in hair strengthening and prevention of alopecia. In addition, Vitamin B5 promotes the production of melanin, which controls the color and shine of hair, and also prevents premature aging.

Contained in : chicken meat, liver, bran, egg yolks, peanuts, broccoli and in large quantities in brewer's yeast (do not get carried away! This is very much fog).

Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is one of the most important vitamins for the human body. It has anti-inflammatory and antiallergic effect, stimulates the synthesis of collagen, participates in the processes of pigmentation, normalizes the permeability of blood vessels. In hair products is used less often, but quite often it is introduced into the composition of hair growth stimulating agents, normalizing the regeneration of the scalp (moisturizes the skin) and in lines for anti-age (anti-aging). Do not replace with sensitive skin (relieves inflammation) and dry hair (in conjunction with vitamin E).

With a deficiency of vitamin C, the skin becomes dry, rough, prematurely aging.

Contained in : citrus, kiwi, cabbage (especially sauerkraut), black currant (and in leaves and berries), apples (especially in green), apricots, tomatoes (especially baked), Bulgarian pepper, strawberries, dogrose and sea buckthorn, potatoes In a uniform (especially in the peel), peppermint, melissa.

Vitamin E or tocopherol - often called the "vitamin of beauty." Has a very strong and obvious antioxidant effect, slowing the aging of the skin. Vitamin E stimulates skin breathing, strengthens the membranes of skin cells; Restores the structure of the hair follicles, reviving even the "sleeping cells" to life. Often introduced into highly active preparations stimulating hair growth, as well as prevention of all types of alopecia, including androgenic. It is very effective in combination with vitamin C.

Contained in : vegetable oil, seeds (not fried), nuts, almost all beans, liver, milk, oatmeal, eggs.

Alpha tocopherol (alpha-tocopherol - protects the skin from harmful UV rays), tocopheryl acetate (antioxidant, protects the skin from harmful UV rays), tocopheryl linoleate (antioxidant) is also often used.

Vitamin H or biotin - because biotin contains sulfur, it can be called a "beauty vitamin for the skin." Controls the exchange of fats, that is, regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands. Restores skin color, shine and strength of hair. It removes inflammation and itching, protects the skin from irritation. It is often introduced into products for the care of oily, sensitive, inflamed and flaky scalp. And as in preparations for strengthening and against loss of thin, lifeless hair. Very good, in hair care and skin care products after chemical procedures (staining, chemical perm) and insolation.

With a deficiency of vitamin H, the appearance of severe seborrhea, hair loss, the appearance of early gray hair.

Contained in : cauliflower, green onions, young beans, green peas, potatoes, yeast, mushrooms, carrots, tomatoes; Products of animal origin - milk, eggs, liver.

Vitamin PP or nicotinic acid amide is an incredibly popular and very fashionable component in cosmetics caring for the body and scalp. Its main effect is the stimulation of the blood stream, all its properties follow precisely from this particular feature. Heals wounds and burns, eliminates acne, acne and dry skin, participates in cellular respiration reactions, normalizes the condition of hair follicles, accelerates hair growth, nourishes the hair along the entire length, stimulates metabolic processes in their roots, prevents graying and hair loss. Has anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory and antipruritic effect, smooths the skin, preventing its aging.

Vitamin U or methylmethionine - stimulates the processes of cell regeneration, favorably affects the metabolism of carbohydrates and fats, relieves pain and allergic reactions.

Moisturizing ingredients in cosmetics

One of the most important tasks of any cosmetics, including for the care of the scalp is effective hydration. The concept of "moisturizing the skin" is ambiguous and multifaceted. It is for this reason that the problem of humidification has to be solved in different ways, and hence by different preparations.

In modern hair cosmetics, moisturizing components can be divided into four groups: hygroscopic substances; Hydrophilic substances; Hydrophobic substances

Hygroscopic substances - absorb moisture from the air. As part of cosmetic products, the rate of evaporation of moisture from the surface of the skin is slowed down and "penetration" of the stratum corneum is provided.

Glycerol (1,2,3-propanetriol) - three atomic alcohol, which is used in a large number of cosmetic products as a rapidly emollient substance. In our frosty climate. It is important that glycerin reduces the freezing point of the liquid, preventing the freezing of the cream or any other preparation on the face during a frosty day. It is unique in that it can absorb water from the air up to 40% with respect to its own mass. This means that in moist air it works as a skin moisturizer (attracting moisture from the atmosphere). Small in size molecules of glycerin can easily penetrate deep enough into deep layers of the skin, thus providing a truly "deep" and "long" moisturizing. It also has an antiseptic effect and promotes a better distribution of cosmetic products on the skin and hair. It is introduced into almost all balms for hair.

Propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol) - two atomic alcohol, which is often used as a solvent (for vitamins, dyes, plant extracts, essential oils) in cosmetic formulations (replaces water). Mellow