Internal SHRUS left: faults, replacement

From the article you will learn about what is the inner SHRUS (left and right) on cars. Any machine is a complex mechanism, which consists of many components. And they all directly or indirectly affect the technical condition of the car, for a comfortable stay in it, safe driving. On all machines with front-wheel drive (or full), there is such a detail as the SHRUS-hinge of equal angular velocities. On different cars it can have individual sizes, shape, design features. But the general principle of operation for all hinges of equal angular velocities is the same, regardless of whether it is installed in a second-hand VAZ car or in a new German, American, or Japanese production.

What is the hinge for?

These elements are installed on cars in which torque is transmitted to the front wheels. The inner SHRUS is left and right the same. When buying new hinges, you need to pay attention only to the compatibility with your car of the manufacturer's products. The price, as you understand, depends on the quality of the product - the more expensive the hinge, the better. The hinge of equal angular speeds provides reliable connection of a differential in a transmission and naves of forward wheels.

Note that the wheel hubs are well below the gearbox. Consequently, they can not be docked with a simple shaft. The cardan shaft will also be ineffective - the loads are large, it is impossible to turn the steering wheel in the right direction while driving. The ideal solution is the SHRUS, which allows wheel drives to work in normal mode. And at the same time to implement the steering.

Characteristic breakdowns

It is worth noting one feature - SHRUS inner left ("Logan" or VAZ in you, it does not matter) and the right wear three times slower than the outer one. This is due to the fact that it is affected by a much smaller load. As for breakdowns, they are the same for internal and external ones. The most common is the natural wear of the balls in the hinge. The gaps increase, the ball bearings take the form of an egg, which leads to the appearance of extraneous sounds, crunches, knocking.

Another common breakdown is the destroyed SHRUS anther. Despite the fact that it is made of thick and durable rubber, the service life is not very large. The fact is that the whole mechanism works in close proximity to the road surface. Therefore, all dirt, water, chemicals will fall on the rubber. It will begin to dry up, cracks will appear, which will lead to ingress of aggressive substances - water, sand and others. The result is a very rapid wear of the balls in the mechanism, the SHRUS knocks, makes terrible sounds.

Tools and accessories

To carry out the work you will need a standard set of tools - wrenches, spanners, end nuts. Screwdrivers, a jack, a pliers are all that everyone should have in the garage. But special tools are also needed. For example, pullers for steering tips. In the event that you are in parallel changing the ball joint, it also needs a puller. But if you only intend to replace the internal SHRUS (left or right), then these tools will not be required.

It is worth noting that for repair you need another key - by 30. It is with his help that you need to unscrew the nut on the hub. It is desirable that this key has a large lever, since the nut is tightened with a very large torque. Also we need wheel chocks under the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving. The presence of reliable supports is also necessary. And most importantly - strong grip.

Preparation for repair

Before starting work, you need to prepare the complete set of spare parts:

1. Directly SHRUS.
2. Anther of CV joints.
3. Two clamps.
4. Grease based on graphite.
5. Hub nut.

Only after this you can begin to carry out repairs. The first thing to drain from the gearbox oil. It is advisable to merge everything, so it will be easier. In fact, it is enough to pour 2/3 of the total volume. In this case, when removing the hinge, oil from the holes will not be spilled. Install the wheels under the rear wheels. Then, using a hammer and a suitable knockout, unscrew the nut, twist it, lift the repair side and remove the wheel.

Removing drive

To remove the drive from the car, you will need to make a few simple steps:

1. Remove the cotter pin from the tip of the steering rod , unbolt it with the help of pliers.
2. Remove the nut by using a 19 key. If it does not lend itself, treat it with penetrating grease and try again in a few minutes.
3. Install the puller on the swivel fist, rotate the main bolt clockwise. If necessary, tap the hammer. After a few turns, a finger should come out of the fist.
4. Remove the two bolts that secure the ball mount to the front wheel hub.
5. That's all practically, it remains only to knock out the lightly tapping of the front left (internal) joints, and only after it - the outer one.

Removal and installation of CV joints on a drive

Now it's time to dismantle the hinges from the drive. For this you can use two methods - the simplest and somewhat more complicated. The difference is whether the vise is being used or not, and whether you plan to use the hinges for the intended purpose in the future. If "no" is the answer to all the questions posed above, then one can take the entire drive in one hand, and in another - a heavy hammer, strike sharp and strong blows until the hinge is released. This removes both the external and internal CV joints.

To not hold a drive in your hand, you can use a vice. Installation should be done more accurately - everything is new, do not spoil it. After all, you can easily damage the carving, and this will affect your safety. Therefore, when you stuff the hinge on the semi-axle, be sure to use wooden spacers. They allow to exclude the possibility that the thread will be damaged. Please note that you must first install the anthers on the axle shaft, and only after this put the CV joints.

Mounting the drive

Now came the crucial moment - the installation of the assembled drive on the car. In this there is nothing complicated, it is enough to repeat all the disassembly steps in the reverse order. In general it will look like this:

1. Insert the inner CV joint (VAZ or other car, it does not matter) into the gearbox. And it must enter so that the locking ring inside opens and locks the drive. Also pay attention to the fact that the slots coincide.
2. Now it is necessary to pull the hub with the stand outwards, in order to install an external grenade in it.
3. Fix the outer joint with the nut.
4. Two bolts attract the body of the ball bearing to the wheel hub.
5. Install the tip of the steering rod into place and tighten the nut. Fix it with a cotter pin.
6. Install the wheel and lower the side of the car to the ground.
7. Tighten the hub nuts with a 30 wrench. Using a hammer and a chisel, fix it on the thread.

Conclusion

In conclusion, it would be worth talking about the effectiveness of repairs. The fact is that you can install new CV joints. And you can buy the entire drive assembly. The question is, what will be better. Of course, the first option is cheaper. Without effort it is possible to replace only the SHRUS inner left (the price of the kit will be approximately 1000-1500 rubles, depending on the manufacturer). A foreign grenade is quite acceptable in this case and not touch. But if you buy the entire drive assembly, then it will cost you at least 4000 rubles. Accordingly, the two drives - this is at least 8000. But the reliability of the assembly, as a rule, will be much better than in the first case.

Also do not forget that the splines on the drive axle gradually wear out. The older your car, the stronger the wear. The optimal solution is to replace not only the hinges, but also the semi-axes. And it is more convenient to do this by buying the drive assembly. But everything depends on the car. If it's old and it's easier to cut it into metal than to repair, then why spend so much money? After all, in the market when selling cars for the inner joints (left and right) will no longer be paid.