How to prepare the beam for siding? How to insulate the wall of the house under siding? Siding "under the bar"

It is believed that the pavers have very good performance characteristics. The drawback of such buildings is only one - they do not keep heat well. In fact, unlike a log, the thickness of the beam used to assemble apartment houses rarely exceeds 20x20 cm. Therefore, in most cases, the walls collected from it must be insulated. Of course, it is necessary to follow this procedure in compliance with certain rules.

What materials should be prepared?

To insulate the walls of a wooden house, you can use both mineral wool and styrofoam. But the first option is still preferable. The fact is that polystyrene foam misses air very badly. A tree, as a material subject to rotting, needs good ventilation. In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to buy steam and waterproofing film. As a finishing skin, you can use absolutely any material. But the best option at the moment is still siding. The fact is that this kind of decoration often imitates a tree. Thus, the overall stylistics of the house is easiest to maintain, using just such material as siding "under the cant." Photos of houses finished by him are presented on the page and clearly demonstrate his neat appearance.

You will also need to prepare lumber. To build the frame, you need a bar, boards and slats. From the tools you will need a screwdriver, a clerical knife, a hacksaw, a building level. Also you will have to buy paint tape, stapler, brackets and screws (or nails).

The siding under the siding is installed and covered with thermal insulation materials according to a special technology. Since such panels are really very popular, we will next consider the technique of finishing the house with their use.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the insulation and plating, you should carefully inspect the bar. Under the siding walls must go carefully prepared. Cracks in the bar can be left untouched. All the same they will be covered with a warming "pie". But rotten places must be cleaned.

Also, before assembling the "pie", it is necessary to treat the walls with an antiseptic compound and a preventative agent for decay. Ignore this recommendation can not be in any case. Under the "pie" the ventilation of the timber will not be too good in any case. And therefore the processes of decay can begin very quickly. If there are bugs in the walls, to destroy them, the "cake" will have to be disassembled, in whole or in part, which, of course, is very costly.

Main stages

Actually, the procedure for the insulation of the cobbled house before the cladding with such material as siding "under the bar," includes the following steps:

• Vapor barrier of walls;

• Installation of the main frame;

• Installation of plates of a heater;

• Installation of waterproofing material;

• Siding with siding.

Layout

This operation must be performed before installing the insulation and wall sheathing with material such as siding "under the bar". The layout is done in such a way that the frame elements for the future "cake" are located with a step slightly less than the width of the insulation. Install a crate when plating a wooden house vertically. In this case, the moisture that accidentally got inside the "pie" will flow smoothly downward.

Of course, the markup should be done using the building level. The beams of the frame must be strictly vertical. Otherwise, in the future, slots will appear between the heat insulation plates and the elements of the crate. As a result, the insulation will be ineffective.

Steam insulation of walls

This procedure at the initial stage is usually carried out only if the usual dried bar was used for building the walls. Under the siding and insulation, the vapor barrier in this case is necessary to pull necessarily. Profiled material moisture from inside the premises almost does not pass. The fact is that such bars are adjacent to each other very tightly, without cracks. In any case, to perform the vapor barrier it is best to take an expensive membrane that allows air to pass through. The lining is performed as follows:

• Under the vapor barrier on the walls the frame is stuffed. It is best to collect it from a board of 15x3 cm. In this case it will be easier in the future to fix the bars of the main frame under the heater.

• The walls are covered with a vapor barrier film. Stretch it horizontally. You can fasten the film either directly with a beam of the main frame, or with a stapler and staples.

Sometimes the vapor barrier is fixed and without a frame - directly on the walls. But to do so is allowed only in the case of using a really high-quality material, which is good for passing air from the outside and a couple of moisture from within.

Installation of the main frame

Next, let's see how the lining is stuffed under the heater and siding. Under imitation of a bar of this type, as well as under such sheets of any other design, it is necessary to fill a wooden frame on the walls. Collected on it "pie" will be better to keep the heat. The width of the bar used for such a frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. The latter is best applied in two layers in such a way that the upper overlaps the seams of the lower one. Therefore, insulation is usually made with mineral wool thickness of 10 cm. Therefore, the width of the timber should be equal to 20 cm.

Installation of insulation plates

Mineral cotton wool between the elements of the assembled frame is mounted with the vials. That is why it is better to install the beam at a distance slightly smaller than the width of the insulation sheets. The material is very elastic, and therefore does not need additional fixing. When installing the second layer, the top slabs are cut in two. Thus it will be possible to block the seams of the first.

Mounting of waterproofing

Not too good resistance to moisture - this is what distinguish houses from the bar. Under siding, therefore, it is necessary to tighten the waterproofing film. Fasten it to the slats with a thickness of at least 3 cm. As a result, inside the "pie" will get the ventilation gap. It is necessary in order for the moisture that has accidentally fallen under the final finish to dry up as quickly as possible.

Fix the waterproofing strip with horizontal stripes. The lapping between them should be about 15 cm. Mineral cotton wool very quickly collects moisture and at the same time loses most of its heat-insulating qualities. Therefore, the installation of waterproofing should be carried out as carefully as possible. Joints between the stripes of the film must necessarily be glued with paint tape.

Siding installation

The technology of mounting this material is relatively simple. For the casing of the cobbled house can be used as a metal siding "under the bar", and vinyl. The latter is characterized by good performance characteristics and cheapness. Metal sheets of this type are more expensive, but they are more durable, and therefore serve longer.

Mounted siding "under the cant" (the photo below shows the process of installing it) as follows:

1. The initial bar is fixed. It should be positioned horizontally using the building level (with a stretched cord). If there are any irregularities along the edges of the cap, a special gasket should be placed under the bar. This is done in order to avoid its wave deformation.

2. Mount external and internal corner elements. On the initial bar they are wound about 6 mm.

3. The finishing strips are installed around the door and window openings.

4. The finishing strip under the roof is mounted.

5. The siding itself is installed. The first sheet is entered into the initial bar. Its upper edge is attached to the wall. The following rows are mounted in the same way. But in this case, the comb of the top panel is inserted into the groove bottom. The sheets of the last row are connected to the finishing strip and snapped.

How to make soffit

Of course, with the plating of the house with such material as metal siding "under the bar, you can do without this element. However, the soffit gives the finish a finished look and makes the exterior of the building itself more solid. It is installed elementary, and therefore it is definitely worth assembling it. This procedure is performed as follows:

• Arranged basement for soffit. To do this, along the perimeter of the walls, a bar is packed at the top. Then it connects to the ends of rafters with rails of the appropriate length. The beam on the walls must be filled in such a way that the slats are placed in relation to it at an angle of 90 gr.

• On the perimeter of the wall is fixed J-Trim. All additional elements, including this one, necessary for assembling the soffit are included with the siding.

• On the edge of the eaves the finishing strip is mounted. Then a chamfer is inserted into it. Both bars must be strictly opposite to each other.

• Further, the soffit itself is cut and inserted into the grooves of the slats. In the joints at the corners of the house, the panels are cut at an angle of 45 g.

Useful tips for installing the siding "under the bar"

So, using metal or vinyl sheets of this type, you can beautifully trim any house, including a wooden one. Siding "under the cant" in the latter case will look especially spectacular. But only in the event that when installing it, observe the following recommendations:

1. All additional elements of the siding are installed not in butt or overlap, while with a small gap (about 6 mm). The fact is that with temperature fluctuations this material can expand or contract.

2. For the same reason, you should not attach sheets to the frame too tight. The sheets in the additional corner elements must also be opened loosely.

3. Installation of the siding "under the cant", like any other, it is better to start from the middle of the wall, and then move on to the corners. The first is usually the back of the house. In the process of doing this, they advance to the facade.

What you need to know about

The technology described above is suitable for warming an old wooden house. New buildings of this type are sheathed using a slightly different technique. The fact is that newly built wooden houses give a strong shrinkage. If the siding "under the cant be used for the plating of the building immediately after its erection, the consequences may be unpredictable. Most likely, the skeleton is warped, and the plates are deformed. Sewing new cobblestone houses with siding is allowed. But at the same time special fastening elements are used as fasteners.

Actually, the finishing of newly constructed paving blocks is usually trusted by specialists. When doing the plating with your own hands, you can admit different kinds of errors, which in the future will lead to problems. Therefore, in the event that you do not want to overpay and decided to mount such material as metal siding "under the bar" (the photos presented on the page, by the way, quite clearly demonstrate its beauty and practicality) on your own, you better still wait for the moment, When the house will shrink. The walls of the timber are drying up, depending on the quality of the timber, during the year.

As you can see, it is quite easy to sew a siding with a siding. This is done in much the same way as in the case of insulation of a building erected from any other material (except for the need to install a vapor barrier). When preparing the beam for siding and insulation, all rotten places should be removed. When assembling a pie, it is important to check the frame elements for verticality and horizontality, and when installing sheets - to withstand the temperature gaps. If all these recommendations are met, the sheathing will be qualitative and accurate, and the insulation will be effective.