HomelinessDo it yourself

How to make light in the garage with your own hands?

Prior to the execution of the work, it is necessary at least in general terms to become acquainted with the main provisions of the "Rules for the installation of electrical installations" (PUE), where all the requirements for the design and installation of electrical wiring in buildings for various purposes are prescribed.

The optimal project is the key to success and safety

At the initial stage, it is necessary, according to the information received, to draw up a general sketch of the garage room, its walls and ceiling, indicating the dimensions and intended locations of the input electrical board, junction boxes, sockets, switches and lighting devices. This takes into account the location of stationary equipment (workbench, welding machine, etc.) and features of the construction structure.

The next stage is the transfer of the plan to the terrain: chalk is drawn on the building elements of the installation site of electrical equipment and consumers, the route of supply wires and cables. When choosing a place for the installation of a distribution switchboard, you should consider how to light the garage from the power supply line. For the garage cooperatives is characterized by its own ramified power network, there will be no special problems with the connection, but for a stand-alone structure it will be necessary to lay an air or underground supply line.

Types of installation

You can mount the light in the garage in two ways - using open or concealed wiring. The second option is typical for concrete and brick buildings. Assumes the use for the laying of cable products technological cavities of walls, slabs or placing it under a layer of plaster in specially made canals - shtroby.

In this case, the switchboard, sockets and switches also cut into the base, which is associated with high labor costs and the need to purchase or rent a specialized tool (shtroboreza, professional puncher). Therefore, the light in the garage with their own hands is more often mounted by the open method, ie, on the surface of building elements.

Selection of electrical materials and tools

Main materials for the project implementation:

  • An input electric panel containing a meter and protective automatics.
  • Electrical wires, cables and protective covers (cable duct, corrugated tube or metal sleeves and trays).
  • Distribution boxes, switches, sockets and lamps of general and local illumination.

When choosing the section of wires, the power of consumers should be taken into account and should be guided by the following table:

Conformity of the load to the conductor section
Conductor cross section (mm 2 ) Copper / load (kW) Aluminum / load (kW)
1.5 4.1 -
2.5 5.9 4.4
4.0 8.3 6.1
6.0 10.1 7.9
10.0 15.4 11.0
16.0 18.7 13.2

It is preferable to use copper wires with insulation that does not support combustion (marking ends with the index "ng"). In addition, copper is favorably distinguished from aluminum by greater resistance to physical impacts and deformations, increased service life and good electrical conductivity in surface oxidation. In the case of combined use, it is in no case possible to connect conductors of dissimilar metals by the "twist" method. For this purpose terminal blocks with screw fasteners or WAGO clamps are intended.

Of tools you can not do without an acute knife, nippers or side cutters, pliers, screwdrivers, electric drills. The availability of a cordless screwdriver will greatly facilitate the work. And since the garage is without light, an electric extension cord and a portable lamp are required for comfortable operation.

Switchboard. electrical safety

How to make light in the garage so that the working and living conditions in it are not only comfortable, but also safe? This mainly depends on the correct configuration and connection of the input distribution switchboard.

The best place for its location is near the entrance gate. If necessary, it will be convenient to completely disconnect the building. To prevent all sorts of emergency situations, a shield that includes:

  • Individual metering device (ISP, electricity meter). It fixes the amount of electricity consumed.
  • Automatic switches (АВ). Protect the power system from overloads and high short-circuit currents. The main AV, designed for maximum load (from 16 to 50 A), is mounted in front of the IGU, the rest - before each group of consumers.
  • Devices of protective switching-off (RCD). Disconnect the electrical circuit when a person contacts a damaged insulation coating or live parts and exceeds a certain leakage current limit (30mA). Mounted immediately after the electricity meter. AB and RCD successfully replace differential automata, combining functions of these two devices in one housing.

In addition, the electrical board is equipped with a step-down transformer, voltage monitoring relay, zero and grounding buses.

In conditions of high humidity and an abundance of metal surfaces, the risk of electric shock increases sharply. Therefore, it is worthwhile to pay special attention to grounding, since it guarantees the reliability of protective devices. A metal strip is laid along the perimeter of the floor or the lower part of the garage walls to which electrodes (eg 3-4 pieces of angular profile with a minimum length of 2 m), stationary energy consumers, a bench workbench and a grounding bus in the switchboard are connected by flexible copper conductors. In exceptional cases, the function of the electrodes can be performed by reinforcement of the concrete foundation of the structure.

Wiring. Connection of sockets and switches

Cable routes (cable channels, corrugated pipes with wire, strobes) should be run parallel to the ceiling at a distance of 15-20 cm from it. Power and lighting lines are powered by different machines and are conducted separately. At junction points, junction boxes are mounted.

The slopes are perpendicular to the floor, taking into account that the height of the switches is not more than 150-170 cm, the outlets are 60-80 cm (except the rosettes are above the workbench: they are fastened directly above the countertop). When the installation method is open, the overhead devices are fixed to the surface with screws or dowels for quick installation. When concealed, metal pads are mounted in previously embedded and fixed with cement mortar (gypsum or alabaster).

Requirements for illumination. Location of fixtures

During the day, certain sunlight adjustments are introduced into the room. In the garage, additional lighting is carried out through window openings or gates, but it is necessary to proceed from the fact that it is necessary to repair the car in the dark.

The most significant indicators of lighting are economy and uniformity. And although the well-deserved popularity among car owners over many years enjoy fluorescent lights, the garage is worth buying LED lights. Their price is gradually decreasing, and the quality of the light flux is constantly growing. Another important principle is the modularity of lighting. Light in the garage is divided into general and local. Additional fixtures are needed above the desk, shelves, machine tools and door opening. Good illumination of the adjacent territory will greatly facilitate parking at night.

Electrical installation of the inspection pit

The inspection pit will turn into any full garage any garage. With the light and electrical safety of this repair area, there will be no problems if the supply voltage is not above 36 V. For this purpose, a step-down transformer (380; 220V / 36; 24; 12V) is used, which can be placed in the input distribution board. Luminaires with hermetic execution (class IP65 and above) and protective grilles are installed in niches along the walls of the inspection pit.

A portable lamp of the appropriate voltage will also be useful for illuminating the darkened and hard-to-reach places of the car. To operate the power tool use a socket installed outside the pit, equipped with a protective shutdown device.

At the final stage of the work, before connecting the light in the garage to the supply voltage, it is worthwhile once again to check the correctness of the commutation of the distribution boxes, to make sure there are no exposed wires.

Ventilation and heating systems

Effective natural ventilation will prevent the active development of corrosion of the body of the car, but with frequent conduct of welding or painting works in the garage, forced air circulation is necessary. The electric motor of the exhaust fan is better to be powered from a separate circuit breaker and to lay a separate line to it.

Directly from the board receive power and heating appliances. For the purposes of fire safety in garages, the use of self-made devices and heaters with open heating elements is prohibited.

A few words about automation

Automated garage systems (management of entrance gates, maintenance of microclimate, etc.) make life of car enthusiasts comfortable and comfortable, but require a backup power source. This can be a gasoline or diesel generator with automatic start. With the disappearance of the voltage in the public network, the engine starts, and the switching equipment switches the automation and light in the garage to the power supply from the generator.

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