Noise isolation of the engine compartment by one's own hands

Automobile manufacturers pay great attention to noise insulation. But not always it is effective. The greatest amount of noise, as practice shows, comes from the engine. Many motorists do not pay attention to this, while others are thoroughly approaching this issue. Let's see how the noise insulation of the engine compartment is carried out, what nuances can be and how to choose the right material.

General information

In fact, the engine compartment in terms of noise insulation is the most problematic part. Often, to get to the required place it is necessary to disassemble the whole torpedo, and even more. But it's worth it, after all, after the work is done, the acoustic comfort in the cabin will improve several times.

The work, though laborious, but with the proper approach, you will manage quickly enough. In fact, there is nothing difficult: the main thing is to follow some simple rules and everything will turn out to be. This manual will be useful for those who have a noise insulation of the engine compartment is missing or leaves much to be desired. Much depends on how the motor works. The large wear of rubbing metal parts leads to additional noise and this must be understood. In such cases, it is not the "noise" of the internal combustion engine, but its repair.

Choice of materials

On how significant the noise reduction will be, direct comfort depends on the ride. The main point here is the selection of the required quantity and type of materials. There are both budget solutions and more expensive ones. It all depends on the thickness of the noise insulation, its quality and properties, but everything in order.

So, after you have calculated the required amount of materials, you need to go directly to the purchases. First, you need a vibration isolation (vibroplast). Next, you need the noise insulation sheets. Pay attention to the thickness. The more it is, the better the result. But even here you need to know the measure, since excess weight will negatively affect the dynamics of the car. Do not forget about anti-grab, which protects noise and vibration from high temperatures. It is not recommended to buy combined materials that are supposedly simultaneously fighting noise and vibration. Their effectiveness is usually quite low, and the cost is high. In addition, such noise insulation from the engine compartment will not bring the proper result.

From simple to complex

It is recommended to begin with the most problem-free part of the car - the hood. Preliminary it must be cleaned and degreased. If there is an old patch that, over time, turns into a black rag, then it is better to remove it and then replace it with a new one. Usually, the hood has stiffeners to circumvent it with the greatest precision it is desirable to make a stencil. On it are cut pieces of noise insulation. As a rule, the material is sold on a self-adhesive basis. That is, it is enough to remove the protective film and can be glued.

The first layer is mounted vibration isolation, and on top of it is already "noise". The thickness should be selected so that the hood is tightly closed without obstacles. If you have correctly cut and pasted everything, then you have already achieved certain results, but this should not be stopped.

Noise isolation of the engine compartment by one's own hands

Now it is desirable to do the work from the inside. Typically, the configuration of parts requiring processing is complex. Therefore, as in the previous case, it is desirable to make stencils from paper and cut vibration and noise insulation on them. Since the main source of noise is the partition between the engine and the cabin, it needs to be given special attention.

It is worth noting that in this case it is necessary to completely disassemble the dashboard. This will require a certain amount of time and patience. It is desirable to photograph the process of disassembly, so as not to forget in what order everything is going to. For example, the noise insulation of the engine compartment VAZ-2107 and other representatives of the classics is extremely simple, but modern foreign cars may have problems. After you have made it out, we try to close the maximum area with vibration and noise insulation. It is desirable to use materials with a foil-faced side, as the noise reflects it, and the temperature regime does not violate.

Machining of wheel arches

Usually the greatest amount of noise comes from the arches and the motor shield. The latter we have already "zashumili, left to cope with the arches. Due to the noise of the wheels and the operation of the suspension, this element becomes one of the most loaded in terms of vibrations and noises. In addition, as practice shows, often there is no regular "noise" there.

But here, unlike the motor shield, there is practically nothing complicated. It is necessary to begin with a thorough washing of the surface and complete drying. Further the surface is degreased and the anti-gravel material is applied. If there is a staff member, then this item can be omitted. We glue a vibration-absorbing layer of the "Noise-off" type. After this, using a brush, apply a layer of mastic, preferably 2-3 layers with intervals of drying 20-30 minutes at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. The final stage is adhesive insulation, preferably based on foamed rubber.

Important details

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the noise isolation of wheel arches. Nevertheless, this is the weak point of many cars, for example, VAZ-2110. The noise insulation of the engine compartment also implies the processing of arches, do not forget about it. Particular attention in this case should be given to mastic, as many do not use it. Nevertheless, unprotected material will be destroyed due to road dirt, salts, etc. The anti-gravel is designed to protect vibration and noise insulation from the effects of technical fluids, that is, aggressive environments. That's why it is recommended to apply mastic in several layers.

About the results

Following the results of the work should be glued the following:

• Bonnet cover;
• Motor shield;
• Wheel arches.

Do not expect anything special from the noise insulation of the hood cover. If you leave the car, the result will certainly be noticeable, but the acoustic comfort in the car is most directly affected by the processing of the engine shield and wheel arches. On how quiet it becomes in the cabin, depends on the material used, the number of layers of anti-gravel, etc. In any case, you can expect a noise reduction of about 20-40% depending on the design features of the car. Since the cost of materials is not significant, it is definitely worth the noise isolation. You can even think about the complete processing of the car.

Let's sum up the results

I would like to note that you can often save money on materials. For example, the same vibroplast in the construction market will cost much less than in a car dealer. This applies to other materials, such as anti-gravel and noise insulation. Remember that the larger the area covered, the better the result. But everything is good in moderation, so it is useless to glue several sheets of vibro-plastic in a row. Then it will be hard to put all the elements of the instrument panel in its rightful place, which is due to the reduction of useful space.

Since it is possible to make noise isolation of the engine compartment with your own hands even without any experience in this area, it makes sense to do it. Especially this applies to cars that do not have a regular "noise", and classics, where the noise insulation is nominally available, but the plant has greatly saved the material and the sense of it is practically nonexistent.