Gussell - what is it? How to sew a crotch in a sleeve

When making some clothes, small pieces of fabric that have a rhomboid, triangular or rectangular shape are deliberately sewn into it. Each such insert is called "gusset". What it is? Why do we need a crotch, and how to sew it into a product? This is detailed in our article.

Gussell - what is it?

Gusset is often compared with a patch. But these are completely different concepts. The patch is a piece of cloth that is sewn to the clothes to hide the hole formed on it. The gusset differs from her. What it is?

Gusset is a piece of fabric that stitches into places with the risk of increased tension of the material to ensure freedom of movement. If you do not insert a crotch when making it, then it is likely that you will soon have to sew a patch to this place.

The gusset is stitched in places where a heavy load is applied when moving. For example, this is the seam of the side seam and the sleeve (armhole) or the step joint in the trousers. So that when walking the seam is not torn, a small piece of tissue is inserted into it. Also crotch is used in pantyhose, baby sliders, men's panties , etc. That is, in those places where the seam when walking can tear. A piece of fabric should be a small size triangular, rectangular or diamond-shaped.

In modern fashion, the gusset performs not only a practical, but also a decorative function.

Gusset in pantyhose

Gusset is widely used in the manufacture of underwear and pantyhose. The presence of this small piece of cloth indicates not only the practicality, but also the high quality of the product. Gusset in pantyhose is sewed into the crotch to ensure the strength of the product, greater width, freedom of movement. In synthetic pantyhose, cotton gusset makes it possible to improve the hygiene of the product, since it prevents odor.

Gusset in pantyhose also performs an antibacterial function and allows you to maintain female health. A similar function is performed by a piece of cloth inserted into the female underwear, made of synthetic materials.

Diamond-shaped gusset: Pattern

It is for the gusset that a separate pattern is not required. The place where it is necessary to put a piece of cloth of a certain shape is simply noted in the drawing. What in this case is a crotch? What it is? This is part of the pattern, and it is indicated in a certain way on paper. This length of fabric is cut off separately from the main parts of the product, while it is necessary to take into account allowances for seams on each side.

The gusset for the sleeve can consist of one or two parts. How do they differ among themselves?

Gusset, consisting of one piece, is a patchwork of a diamond-shaped fabric. This piece of matter is inserted into the incision, specially left after the lateral and axillary sutures are rubbed.

The gusset, consisting of two parts, represents two pieces of cloth, one of which is sewn to the front, and the other to the back of the product. Lateral and axillary sutures in this case are worn out after the gusset is sewn. Such a flap of fabric to insert into the product will be much easier.

A sleeve with a gusset made up of one or two parts looks almost invisible, but it is much more convenient to wear such clothes. How to sew a piece of cloth in a sleeve, consider below.

How to sew a crotch in a sleeve

The insertion of the crotch into the sleeve of the article is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Stretch the lateral and axillary sutures, leaving a small incision open under the crotch.
2. Place the gusset on the left incision from the inside. Combine the ends of the cut with its corners, connect all the seams to the allowance.
3. Stitch seams need to alternately from one corner to the next, each time unfolding the product to yourself.
4. Only after all the stitches have been stitched, you can remove the stitching. Check that all seams on the front side are flat, after which they can be removed. Iron the gusset from the front side of the product, then sweep the seams from the underside.

In a similar way, you can insert a piece of fabric into the panties with a crotch, attaching it to the two halves of the fabric along the seam line.