Throat: processing of the cutout. Treating the knitting neck

While making clothes at home, you should pay attention to an element such as a neck, the treatment of which sometimes presents a difficulty for beginners. Let's look at the existing ways of processing the cutouts of the garment and the necessary technological operations for this.

One of the classic variants of such processing is the grinding of the cuts of the armholes and throats with the help of an oblique bake or the processing of the neck by the obtusement, which is cut from the same fabric with the obligatory arrangement on it in such a way that the share threads and the filaments match them. The exception is matter embroidered with paillettes, it is treated with a lining cloth.

When cutting out the edges around their perimeter, an allowance is required. To prevent stretching of slices, every detail of the flashing must be reinforced with non-woven fleece. Punching from the gasket together with the seam allowance should be pressed onto the reverse part of the fabric wrap with the transfer of the contours.

How to process the round neck

The processing of the neck of the product begins with the grinding of the details of the facing, the ironing and marking of the allowances on the seams. Then, its internal section must also be swept. After that, we chip the obtacle with the neck with the inside sides and sharpen it. The allowances of the resulting seam are cut as close as possible to the line, in the rounding areas we make cuts that do not reach the seam line by 2 mm.

Pay attention - if there is no need to otstrachivaniya neck, allowance for obtachku should be ironed. At the same time, make sure that there are not small creases. It is most convenient to carry out the operation of ironing on the edge of the ironing board or on a special pad.

The next stage: we grind the obtacle to the allowance near the seaming joint, turn it to the wrong side. It is necessary to sweep the edge in such a way that the seam is located near the fold from the underside, and from the front side it would not be visible. You can also detach the neck - at will.

Further actions

The facing is fixed to the allowances of each shoulder seam with a pair of stitches. If the design provides a zipper, grind it before you start to clean the neck cleanly.

Protruding beyond the edges of the cut, allowances of short cuts should be turned off and sewed to the fabric tape of the zipper. In the case of an airborne product (or having a one-piece collar), the latter is first turned to the front of the product, then the neck is cut with its obtilation. Then cut the obtachka before entering the short cut into a 1 cm spur and pritachivayut.

Then, similarly, the seam allowances are cut off close to the line, the bottom (or cut of the cut) together with the neck flap is turned to the wrong side and labeled, then pressed and sewn to each other.

The neck in the form of a square or V-shaped cutout is treated similarly round. To turn the obtachki on the wrong side, there should be allowances for seams in the corners and close to the seam at the top.

Handling armholes

But attention is required not only by the throat. Handling armholes is just as important. They are just as cleanly turned by obtachkov, similar to the round neck. It is convenient at the same time to perform side seams at the same time. This will allow you to adjust the product to the width without opening the obtachka - due to the allowance of each side seam. It is important at the same time that the allowances for facing and side seams of the product itself coincide in width.

How to achieve this? In the beginning, the shoulder joints should be treated both on the product and at each obtach with sifting and pressing the allowances. Then - sweep the obtachki on the inner sections. On the whole product (from both sides), the obtachka cleaves with armholes and faces.

The seam allowances are cut very close to the line with the cutting on the rounded sections and are pressed into the obtack. Then it is pruned to the seam allowances next to the seam. One stitching is sewing the obtachki with the side sections of the product. The seam allowances are swept and ironed. Obtachka turns out on the wrong side, the edge is swept out. Then it is sewn to the allowances of the seams (lateral and shoulder).

How to perform a single obmachku armholes and throats

This operation is performed for models without sleeves and with narrow shoulders - in this case, the perforations of the armhole and throats are a single detail. Since, as a result of joining all circular sections, eversion of the obturator is impossible, the shoulder seams are temporarily left open. They sew off later.

At the beginning, the lower sections of the obtacks are sewn. They should be folded with cuts of the neck and arm to each other face. Then, cut the sections of the armhole and the necks with the alignment of the seam lines. Stitch, leaving about 3 cm of seam below the marked shoulder line unshielded. Along the edges of the seam to make bows.

Seam allowances are cut close to the line. Obtachka on the front is turned inside out, in front of the back and obtachki fold their faces. Before prikalyvaetsya to the back of the marked shoulder line, pritachivaetsya. Then the shoulder lines of the obtacks are cleaved and also worn off.

At the shoulder seams, the allowances are lifted. The armholes and throats open and cut open. Before stretches out from each shoulder edge of the back, the back facing is automatically turned out on the wrong side of the back. The edges of the armhole and the necks are pressed on the side of the obtacks. The side sections of the obtacks and the product itself are folded face to face and are cleaved, then they are sewn together in a single line.

If the shoulder sections are very narrow

When the width of the shoulder sections is 3 cm or less, the fringes are pinned to them face to face and are sharpened exactly to the place of the shoulder seams, at the end of which the bracing is made. The allowances are also cut very close to the line with the cutting on the rounded sections.

Obtachki turned to the side of the wrong side, prjutjuzhivayutsya. Shoulder sections are stitched with facial sides without sticking out the stitching. The seam allowances are unfolded, the turned edges are sewn together by a few stitches.

Pure skewing

Another type of processing of the cut of the armhole or cutout of the product is the processing of the neck by an oblique bake, both finished and cut from the fabric. Ready-made bake (made of cotton or other material) can be bought at any clothing store. They are matte or glossy, their range is wide enough. The recommended width of the finished bake folded in half is 4 cm.

The treatment of the neck by the bake begins with its unfolding and ironing. If it is decided to cut it out of the main or lining fabric, the billet preform is folded in half inside the back, prjutjuzhivayut with giving the bake the shape of the rounded cutout (this operation is called "pulling the edges"), the open sections are planted.

The bacon and the neck section are pinned to each other with faces so that the bake fold is about one and a half centimeters from the planned seam line, and its open sections are on the allowance. The bacon is ground from the back of the back and passed exactly along the line marked for the neck. Seam allowances are cut off.

The oblique bake turns to the wrong side, its edges are omitted and ironed. Another shoulder seam is made, side sections are sewn. Attention should be paid to the smooth arrangement of the neck sections relative to each other. At the resulting seam, they are ironed, sliced and manually adhered along the neck of the allowances. Stitching of the neck - at will.

How to handle corners

If the corners are internal, the oblique bake is sharpened to the corner. Turns to the side, the bend is fixed with a pin, the bake is sharpened from the corner, swept out and ironed. In the corner, a fold is sewn and sewn up. On the front side, the edge is detached.

Processing the external corners, pritachivayut to the corner of the oblique bake, cut off its allowance of the bake next to the last stitch, then the bake is sharpened from the notch. In the corner, the allowance is cut diagonally. The beak is seen on the wrong side, a fold is formed and sewn in the corner. The edges are ironed and detached.

Additional tips

To prevent the curvature of the cuts of both the throat and the armhole in the process of twisting with an oblique bake, it is necessary to press the non-woven fabric from the underside.

To grind the side cuts, you should proceed after clearing the armhole.

If the product does not have a fastener in the neck area, start with the shoulder sections. Do not forget to press the seams allowances together.

Treating the knitting neck

Knitwear is an unchallenged leader among the fabrics of which women's clothing patterns are sewn. From it the most elegant and elegant models are obtained. They are practical and convenient, they can be worn all year round.

Throat processing in knitwear plays an important role. There are a lot of options here - finishing with various elastic bands, a roll from the facial surface (we are talking about hand-tied products in which the neck is processed with knitting needles), decorative edges, etc.

Consider the technology of processing the neck of the product, sewn from elastic knitwear. For example, let it be the processing of the neck of the dress. Suppose our neck has the shape of a boat, we will process it by obtachka. The principle of processing is preserved for the cutout of any shape - oval, square, etc.

Where to begin?

First of all, by the figure, we specify the shape that our neck has. Processing it begins with the folding of the entire product in half and puncturing with pins. Obtachku cut out from a double cut of fabric, attaching it to the neckline and circling the last chalk.

As is known, in knitted things the neck is stretched out more easily, so that the obtachka is to be glued with a knitted fabric. If the knitwear is tight enough, you can dispense with the usual non-woven fabric.

Obtachka we grind along the shoulder seams and pin or look to the neck of the product. The stitch is about 7 mm from the edge. The seam allowances are trimmed to 3-4 mm, for turning out on them the notches are made. Fix the obtacle with a finishing seam along it at a distance of about 1 mm from the seam.

The variant of processing with an oblique bake is suitable only for an oval-shaped neck.

So our neck is ready. Processing it, as you can see, is not such a complicated business. Good luck to everyone in mastering the secrets of sewing skill!