How to make a Moscow suture on a light fabric? detailed instructions

Beautifully stitching open sections on thin fabrics can be quite problematic and difficult, since the flowing material can be strewed and literally "float" in the hands. Do you want to get an excellent result in the form of a neat, gracefully tucked edge? Use for this purpose the Moscow seam. Consider the main stages of its implementation in the form of a step-by-step instruction with photographs.

Moscow seam: the distinctive features of technology and the secrets of accomplishment

This method of processing open slices is most suitable for thin fabrics (photo 1), which have a rare and transparent structure. When working with such materials, there are often situations when the hem is "removed" (especially when edging on the overlock) along with the stitch. Therefore, we have to use a special technology. The main principle of performance of work - a double gate and laying a stitch almost "seam in the seam". The finished hem is obtained very narrow (no more than 3-4 mm) and visually does not weight the product. What is the secret of such jewelry, fine work? The Moscow seam is different from other special technology of internal processing. The point is to cut the free area of the fabric from the edge almost immediately to the paved line. Then, after the second door, next to or above the first, a finishing Moscow joint is made. The scheme in the finished form is the following: from the wrong side along the edge there are two lines of finishing (almost uniform), and on the front one.

Stage one: the gate and stitching

1. Pre-iron the fabric.
2. If necessary cut off the edge of the canvas, which is ruffled in the form of a fringe.
3. Place the material face down.
4. Turn the edge by 9-10 mm.
5. Make a stitch close to the edge. The distance to it should not be more than 2 mm. The stitch width is standard. Take care that there is no contraction of the canvas.

In this way, start to perform the Moscow seam on chiffon, silk and other air fabrics, provided that the edge goes in the share or transverse direction. And how to act, for example, when decorating the bottom of a flared skirt? It should be slightly complicated to perform the first stage. Thanks to additional actions, the result will eventually be more accurate and elegant.

The first door

A slightly complicated way to perform the initial stage of the gate is best used if the fabric is cut in an oblique direction or the edge has an arcuate shape. Usually such a problem occurs when processing the bottom of a dress or a skirt with a cut in the shape of a flare. The allowance for seams in such models is no more than 1-1.5 cm, since the gateway on the oblique section, even slightly enlarged, will be undulating. So, to achieve accuracy, it is necessary to lay a preliminary line on a straight, straightened canvas. Then, while flexing the fabric, immediately press it to fix the shape (photo 2). Only after this, do the first line, guided by point 5 of the first stage, described above. It is in this slightly complicated version that the Moscow seam on curtains made of thin fabrics is often performed when lambrequins are designed, where different directions of threads are present when cutting.

Stage two: cutting tissue

Let's begin the internal processing of the seam. Using sharp scissors, cut the gap of the fabric from the edge to the line almost from the opposite side (photo 3). Leave a small gap, literally 1 mm. The finished result is much more accurate if the stitched edge is pulled in a semicircle on the index finger of the left hand, and the right to operate the scissors, while feeling the support and the restriction. It is important at this stage not to overdo it, so as not to accidentally damage the seam line, but too wide a remainder of the fabric is also useless. As you can see, the Moscow seam is quite a jeweler and laborious work. For its high-quality performance, apart from diligence, you also need an excellent eye and a firm hand. After cutting the doorway, you can re-iron the iron.

Stage three: the second stitching

1. Fold the edge to a width of 2-2.5 mm, so that the first line is located in the middle.
2. Route the machine stitch "needle in the needle" or several side by side, retreating to the left by 1-1.5 mm. Try at the same time to stretch the fabric several times and avoid skewing, especially with a different direction of the share thread (photo 4).

Carrying out practically this stage, it can be concluded that the width of the finished hem will depend on the location relative to the edge of the first stitch. Therefore, the better the workpiece was made, the better the result will be.

So, we examined all the subtleties of how to make a Moscow seam on chiffon, silk or any thin fabric. Of course, this stitching is also applicable to other materials (except very dense ones) - crepe, satin, coarse calico, etc. The application of the described technology will allow processing slices neatly and beautifully, without even having at hand special devices for finishing the elements of products.