HobbyNeedlework

All about the pattern of free-cut dresses

Want to sew a beautiful dress, but still doubt your abilities? Drive all doubts from yourself! To sew by own hands a dress of a free cut, which pattern is under construction only for 10 minutes, any beginner can. No complicated calculations and intricate formulas, only a little patience and perseverance - and you can show off a terrific new thing.

The secret of a stylish dress

Undoubtedly, a dress is the thing that will be an appropriate outfit at any event, whether it's a walk with a child, a party or a business meeting. Its versatility directly depends on the choice of fabric for the product itself and accessories, which will complement the image.

It is clear that the stylish dress looks only in the case when it is matched with the right shoes, strap or decorative collar and handbag. And if we talk about the shape and pattern, a free-cut dress is an ideal variant for experiments with style.

Fabric and coloring

Color plays an important role. A monophonic canvas gives more opportunities to play with accessories. Colored prints restrict, because it is not customary to appear in an office, for example, in a dress resembling a parrot's coloring. At the same time, calm peas, a cage or a strip will look appropriate in both sports and business style.

As for the type of canvas, then for the summer will suit silk, staple, cambric, chiffon, viscose. For the cold season it is better to choose more dense fabrics, for example, corduroy, poplin, wool or velvet.

The basic template is the whole head

Absolutely all clothes are built on the basis of the basic pattern. Dresses free cut is no exception. And even on the contrary, this product does not require any modifications to the basic template. Without talevyh darts, without additional shaped lines and elements of cut, which at times makes it easier to work on the product. In fact, the ready basic template - this is the very pattern of dress free silhouette. So it's up to you to build a base, and you can start cutting the fabric.

To build a pattern of a free-cut dress, the following measurements are required:

  • Neck girth;
  • Breast;
  • Waist;
  • Thighs;
  • Chest height;
  • Height of the backrest and transfer to the waist;
  • Shoulder width;
  • Grout solution;
  • the length of the sleeve;
  • length of the product.

For the template, it is most convenient to use a construction film. It does not tear and does not crumple like paper. Also, you need a permanent marker, ruler and centimeter tape.

Rectangle for pattern

The drawing begins with a vertical equal to the length of the dress:

  1. From its extreme points at a right angle lay horizontal, equal to half the measure of "chest girth".
  2. The lines are enclosed in a rectangle.
  3. Then, on the left vertical, the value corresponding to the height of the chest recedes and the horizontal line of the chest is drawn.
  4. According to the "height of the back and transmitted to the waist" measurement, the "waist line" is drawn horizontally.
  5. On the back, as a rule, it passes somewhat higher than on the front.
  6. At 20-22 cm below denote the line of the thighs.

In this rectangle, the right vertical is the middle of the back, and the left is the middle of the back.

Shoulders and throat

Further on the horizontal, the values of the measures are transferred, forming the basic grid on the drawing:

  • First, mark the neck on the back, receding from the angle 1/3 of the measurement of "neck circumference".
  • From the resulting point, go up by 1.5 cm and draw a smooth bend to the upper left corner of the rectangle.
  • From the point of the neckline, the shoulder line is laid under the slope (measure "shoulder width").
  • The inclination for the tall shoulders is 1.5 cm, for normal shoulders - 2.5 cm, for the sloping shoulders - 3.5 cm. This distance is measured from the upper horizontal line. These moments should be drawn on the drawing, even if you need a pattern of a loose-cut dress with a cutout of the boat. This will avoid the errors of planting the product in the figure.

  • Next, draw the neck from the top right corner of the rectangle.
  • Half of the measure is divided into two, add half a centimeter and the resulting value lifts the edge of the neck on the front. The width of the cutout, as well as on the back, should equal 1/3 of the measure "neck circumference".
  • The neckline is drawn by a smooth line from the top point to the corner of the rectangle.
  • Next proceed to the shoulder section. On the front, it should be 105 cm lower than on the back. But on the basic pattern of a loose-cut dress in the shoulder section, there is a tuck for the chest. After it can be transferred to the side seam. Therefore, the humeral cut is indicated after the armhole is prepared on the back.

Obmy, tuck and side seam

  • From the left vertical along the line of the breast measure half the value of the width of the back, put a point and raise the perpendicular to the upper boundary of the rectangle. This will be the back area.
  • Next comes the armhole area. Its width along the breast line should be equal to half the chest circumference divided by 4 + 2 cm. The rest is the shelf area. The area of the armhole is also closed perpendicular to the upper horizontal line of the drawing.
  • On the perpendicular separating the back zone, measure 1/3 of its part from the line of the chest and put a point.
  • The middle of the armhole zone is found on the chest line. A smooth line connects these points with the shoulder cut.
  • Further, on the perpendicular, the zones of the shelf and armhole are also placed at a level of 1/3 of its height. Remember that the shoulder seam on the front should be tilted 1.5 cm lower than on the back. In this case, the armhole is shifted towards the armhole zone at a distance equal to half the chest circumference divided by 10.
  • This point is connected to the apex of the neck.
  • Next, work on a breast tuck. From the right vertical retreat ½ measure "tuck groove solution," from this point raise the perpendicular. At the intersection with the shoulder cut from the resulting point, retreat 4 cm and lower the line to the starting point of the dart.

  • Further along the line of the hips, from the left and from the right vertical, lay 1/4 of the hip circumference + 2 cm. Through these points, from the middle of the armhole to the lower boundary of the rectangle, lay a lateral seam.
  • To build a pattern of a free-cut dress with pockets along the thighs, draw a burlap pocket. It can be made as a solid, or sewn.

If you need a pattern of a loose-cut dress with a sleeve, then you need to cut out the template, add additional film and extend the shoulder cut to the desired length, and wrap the side seam along the armhole so that the lower and upper sections of the sleeve are parallel.

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